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By Mike McHugh
May 11, 2014

For those stuck indoors: a hopefully brief, informative summary of progress in Eldorado post-flood.

Angry creek.
Angry creek.


Climbing areas:



As of today, almost all climbing access is normal - there are a few exceptions:

Shirt Tail Peak is currently closed to protect a golden eagle nest.

Access to Supremacy is a little different - park in the Rincon lot and walk across the bridge. At some point this summer, the area will close for a week or two to rebuild the road. (I did just enough road repair there to get the honeywagon in to hoover the pit toilets)

The West Ridge should be approached with caution if using the Streamside trail. The creek just seems fast this year.

In the fall, access to the Bastille will probably be restricted. More in the "roads" section below.

Roads:


The big repair at the Bastille is going to take place this Fall. In the most likely scenario:
  • Most of the parking at the lower (East) end of the park will remain open.
  • Climbing on the North side of the canyon (Rotwand-Cadillac) will remain open.
  • Vehicle access to the western end of the park will be very restricted.
  • Climbing at the Bastille will be closed to keep people out of harm's way.

We'll be negotiating with the contractor to try and have improved road/Bastille access on weekends - but there's a good chance they'll want to work seven day weeks to get the job finished.

Be wary of any climbing gym rumors about Eldo. We've done everything possible to maximize climbing access during repairs and will continue to do so.

The Picnic Area:


Closed. It'll probably re-open in August.

Trails:


Shameless plug: If you'd like to help with trails, this is your year. There's a lot to do. eldo.eventbrite.com

A bunch of gnarly volunteers got a lot of the big repairs done. Some of the most notable:

Over the winter/spring, I'd bet we moved 50+ tons of material to rebuild the Streamside Trail from the bridge to the coffer dam. Yeesh.

During.
During.


After.
After.


The Eldorado Canyon Trail - we moved a LOT of material to repair the 100 yard, 2-foot deep rut that was left after the flood.

Ben, rock.
Ben, rock.


Almost done.
Almost done.


Final product.
Final product.


The Front Range Climbing Stewards


Over the last few years, some folks have been busting butt to build a professional trail team for front range climbing access. This year, the team started working in Eldo.

So far, JB, Matt, and Ben have done some amazing work at the Roof Routes:

Much improved Roof Routes trail/staging areas.
Much improved Roof Routes trail/staging areas.


Currently, the team is working on the big blowout just before the West Ridge:

JB and Ben slingin' rocks.
JB and Ben slingin' rocks.


In case you're curious, we use shackles (not steel carabiners) for rigging.

The Rattlesnake Gulch Trail is still closed. The trail contractor should start work in the next month or so. They'll build a pedestrian bridge across the big blowout.

All in all, thanks to everybody

who's helped out, and thanks to the Eldo climbing population for your understanding while we get everything back in order.

Mike McHugh
Park Resource Technician
Eldorado Canyon State Park


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By Gregger Man
May 11, 2014
gg

Thanks, Mike. And thanks to the Front Range Climbing Stewards for the nice stone work!


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By Steve Williams
From Denver, CO
May 11, 2014

A super hooray for JB, Ben, and Matt!!!(of course, Mike too)!


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By Adam Pecan
From The Van, CO
May 11, 2014

Thanks for all the hard work!


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By Cor
May 11, 2014
black nasty

Bump for the good work folks… I have not been in Eldo for awhile. (sigh..)

In looking at those photos of moving big rocks with ropes, etc..
Could we get ClimbTech to donate some removable bolts??
Looks like you guys were putting a bolt in to help facilitate moving things in the pictures.

Cheers All !!

Cor


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By Mike McHugh
May 11, 2014

Yeah, Cor, what's up?

We're using the Climbtech Swivel Hybrid - it's got a decent WLL. A lot safer for crew than using slings, lets us get rocks closer to the skyline to use the rigging more efficiently. (It's painful even to me how much I geek out about this stuff).

Vinny at Climbtech has been pretty helpful over the years. If he's reading, I'm sure the crew and I would take a t-shirt or something, though ;)


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By fossana
From Bishop, CA
May 11, 2014
downclimb off the First Flatiron <br />photo by TooTallTim

Wow, the trails/stairs are looking good. Thanks to the trail crew for all of the heavy lifting!


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By DennisL
May 11, 2014
l

I traveled through Boulder on my road trip a month ago and spent a bunch of great days at Eldo. Every time I went, I saw Matt, JB, and Ben hard at work at their latest project. I was as impressed by their professionalism and great attitude as by the fantastic improvements they were making to the trail - you guys are super lucky to have such a great crew hard at work on your crag!

Thanks to the crew for their work and beta, and to all the area climbers who showed me around!


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By Mike McHugh
May 20, 2014

Supremacy and environs will be closed from May 27th until June 17th. Heavy construction will be taking place on the road immediately adjacent to the "Pyramid".

If construction proceeds more rapidly than expected, we'll re-open the area ASAP.

There may be further periodic closures during the summer as needed for picnic area reconstruction.

Some climbs on the North facing slabs - in particular Quartzite Ridge through Right Wall, may be accessible during construction.

Contact the park (303 494 3943) or PM me for status and specifics.

Thanks for your patience.


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By Cor
May 20, 2014
black nasty

Mike.. That's awesome ClimbTech is helping you(all of us) out!!

I will be back! :). Just been busy in Boulder Canyon on some new routing.
And right now I am in Taiwan! Hoping the rain stops when it when it is time to head to Long Dong for some climbing.

Holly shit, and to add to that I am staying in a hotel on the top floor (12) and just thought I was tripping !! The whole building/room just started to shake.
Earthquake!! I have felt minor ones years ago, but while on the ground, but never up so high.
That was freaky!

C


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