All the best to the two climbers.

I've started a new thread for some (hopefully) constructive discussion about the technical aspects of this situation.

Speedy recovery to Chris and Chris, good friends with whom I've shared many ropes and beers.

FWIW, they are both VERY experienced and VERY competent climbers--5.13+, fast ascents on El Cap, 5.12 on the Diamond, new routes, etc. They are not unfamiliar with loose rock, and this was not a case of "gumbilation," as Klinga would say.

For me, this is yet another unfortunate reminder that IT CAN HAPPEN TO YOU. Even in a popular place like Eldo on a well-travelled classic like D-G. Be careful out there.

Thanks for those important details Josh -serious stuff

Given the route they were climbing, I assumed they were hardmen.

"Challenge remains: If you or anyone else feels they could do it better, you are more than welcome to invest your time and energy into a volunteer mountain rescue team."


What I just heard:

RMR, unlike other well known rescue organizations, draws a lot of criticism and questions about their general competence every time they go out - but they don't care. You should love them no matter what because they are free and volunteer, even though all their real costs are covered by our taxes. They are staffed by all sorts of nice guys, even if they don't know squat about climbing. I really loved that Tyrolean, too.

that's bullshit, Jed. They do care.

Good reminder that is still spring and stuff has loosened up over the winter! Just yesterday two football sized rocks were pulled off of Almost Gothic at Shelf. It happened up high near the traverse; thankfully everyone below was given a quick alert and was able to dodge...

Holy crap, no wonder the climbing community has such a bad rap. Some of you are actually complaining about too many people showing up for a rescue. Too many VOLUNTEERS!!!. You should be ashamed. The I have helped on tons of rescues BS is total crap. There is a ton of difference between helping when you can and volunteering for an actual organization. These people volunteer tons of time to helping people in need. And not just climbers, but hikers, bikers, skiers etc. I hope any regular Joes reading this don't take comments from idiots like Healyje as the standard for climbers.

I am sure if there were too many rescuers getting in the way, they would have been told to move. It sounds more like there were in your way slowing you down, taking precious Mountainproject time were you could be complaining online about how you would have done it. How pathetic. I know a few rescue volunteers, and they spend their weekends climbing, biking, skiing, etc. and when they get a call, they stop their activity, picnic, etc. and rush to help someone in need. I believe RMR was actually training in the Indian Peaks Sunday. So if 50 VOLUNTEERS show up in eldo after training the the mtns all day I say thats great. Any FYI, I am not in RMR or any rescue group. Personally I am too selfish and want to spend my weekends out in the mtns and drinking beer instead of sitting around waiting to help someone in need.

I have a great solution. Since Eldo is a world class destination, lets make it like a world class ski resort. $80 a day or say $1200-$1500 a seasons pass. There are no lifts but insurance companies rate climbing as higher risk - so similar costs. Then the park can hire some of the hardmen who know everything with full time salaries so be the rescue rangers. You can all learn about insurance requirements and liability and required procedures. Then on fall weekends instead of being a stud up on the Naked Edge you can be bouldering and waiting at the creek in case someone needs help. I mean since I will be paying I will expect a 15 minute or less response time. Then if you need to do a scree evac from a hard to reach place (Eldo has many), you can call you buddies to help (who by the way won't be able to hit the bars after climbing anymore in case they need to be sober to help).

Like Mark said, if you can do it better then volunteer your weekends and occasional week nights and show them how its done. Since I won't, I will continue to donate and appreciate what others are willing to do.

Just a wee bit over-the-top there, Curt. Wee bit.

You should hear what my one rescue friend says about some of her peers. Curl your toes, it would. Ha.

Sorry about the rant, but sometimes you gotta let it out. I know there are lots of rescuers out there with little climbing experience. RMR also has members who do tons of climbing and serious mountaineering these days. I am sure it goes through cycles, and many more remote areas have even less qualified staff, but they are all extremely committed and trying to help. Some of the comments on this site are pretty sad.

"Just a wee bit over-the-top there, Curt. Wee bit."

Only thing over the top are your moronic posts in every single thread. Tim, before you post, think for 10 seconds.


As for RMRG, you armchair experts who might have "assisted" in rescues in the past have no idea the manpower and logistics involved in a complicated high angle situation like this one. Those men and women are as dedicated and professional as they get, and if you don't believe me, go to a practice and meet some of them. You might learn something.

Eldo and the rest of Boulder County are world class climbing destinations. I thank god every time I go out that we have a world -class rescue team to go along with them.

Flame war Distraction

"Just a wee bit over-the-top there, Curt. Wee bit." Only thing over the top are your moronic posts in every single thread. quote>

I "love" the religious fervor and righteous indignation of people who try to shout down discussion. The higher the bully-pulpit the farther they fall, in my estimation.

Thanks to the owner, admins and sponsors of this site we get to have an opinion and express it in this electronic parking lot discussion.

FWIW I look forward to anyone who works for RMR responding here in intelligent fashion. Really do. The rants, well, I read through them and try to find the good points amidst the vitriol and respond to those.

Good points, Tim, about the assumptions made in the rants that we who dare to criticize obviously have no training or "real" experience and have never gotten out of the armchair to contribute the way (fill in your hero here) has.

One point semi off topic but related...why would you ever climb rocks without a helmet?

What is more important: the belayer wearing a/the helmet or the lead climber? In many instances where there is one helmet I'd prefer my belayer wear it just because of rock fall or kicking rocks off. It happens too frequently.

Kirra are you one of the "Flames" ???

LOL ~ how true... :)~