|b. Gelsa to Moe (closure)
P1: Start by making interesting bouldery moves to reach a thin crack, go left over an overhang, then up and right to finally reach a belay in a pine tree.
Ivan Rezucha: The original P2 went up an obvious 5.8 jagged crack that had been done earlier as a variation of a nearby route. That 5.8 crack was one of the "cleavages" that led to the name Elder Cleavage.
About 100 feet downhill of Lonely Challenge, and just right of the right-leaning ramp and crack of Up Yours. Start 10 feet left of a small boulder standing very close to the cliff.
Standard rack - get a spotter for the bouldery start.
|Comments on Elder Cleavage Direct
From: Falmouth (MA)
Jun 5, 2009
I led the first pitch last Sunday but it was too late to finish the route. So I've described the first pitch only ...
It's definitely a nice one.
|By Ivan Rezucha|
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jun 8, 2009
First ascent was NOT Annie O'Neill. Maybe Rod Schwartz? I forget!
Aug 6, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b
Make sure you have tiny cams (blue-black aliens) for the 2nd pitch. Run out the begining of 3rd pitch- (it seems like 5.5 if you pick the right route) to avoid rope drag.
From: Wayne, PA
Aug 17, 2009
My what a climb. P1 is hard, thin and has a set of moves under a flake that feel very awkward and slippery (feet). P2 is beatiful with a very cool (but easy) roof move. The crux (for me) were the moves right up under the roof, getting there was a bit tricky.