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Elder Cleavage Direct 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 320', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Ivan Rezucha, 1980
Page Views: 1,972
Submitted By: proto on Jun 5, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (29)
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TR of first pitch.

Description 

P1: Start by making interesting bouldery moves to reach a thin crack, go left over an overhang, then up and right to finally reach a belay in a pine tree.

Ivan Rezucha: The original P2 went up an obvious 5.8 jagged crack that had been done earlier as a variation of a nearby route. That 5.8 crack was one of the "cleavages" that led to the name Elder Cleavage.


Location 

About 100 feet downhill of Lonely Challenge, and just right of the right-leaning ramp and crack of Up Yours. Start 10 feet left of a small boulder standing very close to the cliff.


Protection 

Standard rack - get a spotter for the bouldery start.



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By proto
From: Falmouth (MA)
Jun 5, 2009

I led the first pitch last Sunday but it was too late to finish the route. So I've described the first pitch only ...
It's definitely a nice one.

By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jun 8, 2009

First ascent was NOT Annie O'Neill. Maybe Rod Schwartz? I forget!

By paulmadry
Aug 6, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Make sure you have tiny cams (blue-black aliens) for the 2nd pitch. Run out the begining of 3rd pitch- (it seems like 5.5 if you pick the right route) to avoid rope drag.

By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Aug 17, 2009

My what a climb. P1 is hard, thin and has a set of moves under a flake that feel very awkward and slippery (feet). P2 is beatiful with a very cool (but easy) roof move. The crux (for me) were the moves right up under the roof, getting there was a bit tricky.

By chris_vultaggio
Apr 29, 2014
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Definitely don't miss the top pitch - it adds some adventure and intimidation to compliment the technical first pitch.

Just beware the loose blocks up high, I've had a party above knock off some microwave-sized blocks in a shower of quartz-conglomerate death from above...