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The Lunchbox
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Blueberry Lizards T 
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El Throatchoker Grande 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 160'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Marcy, Geir & Doso
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,828
Submitted By: Marcy on Oct 11, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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Marcy on the FA of El Throatchoker Grande, just ab...

Description 

Start just left of the center of the face near two small pockets at head height. Using the pockets pull up to a small ledge. Work to a prominent vertical crack, then step left into a crack leading into a “pod” (shallow cave). Stem up the pod and exit to the right into a long, fun crack that widens as you go up. At the end of the wide crack follow discontinuous cracks to the top.

Descent - Two choices: (1) You can do 1 double rope rappel from Blueberry Lizards. (2) Two single line rappels: Locate 2 bolt anchor with leaver-biners just south of the Throatchoker top-out. Rappel ~40' to the the anchor for Centipede Corner then rappel Centipede Corner (A 60m rope is just long enough with rope stretch to get down. If you come up short you can swing to the right a bit and then scramble down).

Location 

See Lunchbox overview map

Protection 

1/2" to #5 Camalot; doubles of #2 through #4 Camalot are nice.


Photos of El Throatchoker Grande Slideshow Add Photo
Jon Ruland effortlessly cruising the opening moves...
Jon Ruland effortlessly cruising the opening moves...
Tim on top belay
Tim on top belay
Arjun heading heading toward the pod on El Throatc...
Arjun heading heading toward the pod on El Throatc...
Chawn Harlow leading El Throatchoker Grande
Chawn Harlow leading El Throatchoker Grande
Jeff in the wide part of El Throaty, I'm on top, H...
Jeff in the wide part of El Throaty, I'm on top, H...
Fun stemming out of the cave
Fun stemming out of the cave

Comments on El Throatchoker Grande Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jan 20, 2013
By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Oct 26, 2009
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

there's still plenty of loose stuff on this one, but once that is gone this climb will almost certainly be a 4-star classic. it's got everything a trad climber could want at the grade.
By Marcy
From: Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
Nov 2, 2009

Climbed this route twice this past w/e. It is cleaning up nicely.
By David Arthur Sampson
Nov 3, 2009
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I think that this climb has cleaned up nicely. Nice long climb with varied moves and a short crux; this climb is a must do.
By arjunmh
From: Phoenix, AZ
Nov 4, 2009
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Climbed it with Marcy and agree that this is a delightful route. Love the diversity and the length of the route and it has indeed cleaned up nicely. My favorite in LDE so far ... Thanks for another great route Marcy and Geir!!
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Nov 4, 2009

Thanks, Arjun! Glad you liked it! Marcy did this FA onsight and was very excited that it went entirely on gear. We didn't know exactly what to expect with that huge wide crack up there, so Marcy carried up a world of big gear to #6. The crux on Marcy's FA was probably the opening moves with 20 pounds of gear dangling off her!
By Marcy
From: Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
Nov 5, 2009

And the wide crack is in the upper portion of the climb...so you don't get to unload the big stuff right away. Turned out #6 is not needed, can get by nicely with a #4 and #5.
By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Nov 15, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

The move right off the ground is probably 5.9, everything else felt like 5.8. I can't comment on the offwidth cause I only made one real offwidth move at the bottom just to get a piece in the back.

You can shove yourself in the offwidth the whole way, but I find that really hard to do when there's so many face holds you can use to avoid it :-)

Fun route!
By roman d
From: Pasadena, CA
Nov 16, 2009
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Fun line! I think I used doubles to #2 camalot and singles of #3, #4, and #5 (C4).
By Catherine Conner
From: Phoenix, AZ
Jan 19, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This is a nice long trad route. I found it to be sort of a bouldery start...? Make sure to bring a 5 or you will be unhappy-and a 4. A bit cruxy getting into the offwidth (or maybe just heady getting the gear in/and then being happy). Always fun to use the 5! I thought 5.9.
By Marcy
From: Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
Feb 8, 2010

Catherine...I think bouldery is a spot on description for the the opening moves of this line. Glad you liked it! It's one of my favorites in the area :)
By Tim Heid
From: Scottsdale, AZ
Nov 22, 2010
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

What an awesome route! I had so much fun leading this one. I walked my #5 for about 10' until I was very happy with the placement, but the rest of the climb had perfect gear and was great fun. This climb reminded me a lot of Bishop's Terrace in Yosemite :)!

Definitely one to get on every time we come out to this amazing place!

Note: The climb was nice and clean except for one pretty big loose block on the ledge after the OW. You can easily avoid using it, but we did step over it with care. Maybe someone following could get it out of there, before it gets knocked off by accident onto someone at the base. (We couldn't this time, b/c Ashleigh was still down there).
By arjunmh
From: Phoenix, AZ
Dec 28, 2010
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Yes, the big loose boulder has been bugging me for a while too -- never able to knock it off because of dogs and people below. Hanna rolled it off two days ago while Isis watched from well below where the sun was! Makes this wonderful climb even nicer.
By Marcy
From: Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
Dec 28, 2010

Thanks, Hanna :)
By Sayfe
From: Scottsdale, az
Jan 20, 2013
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Clean and fun route, make sure to take a #5 or 4 for the wide crack above the overhand, we did it without it which was not fun. Id say more like 5.8+