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 ADVANCED
Raco de les Espadelles
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"6a+"  S 
Draculin  S 
El Sistema S 
Guirlache S 
La Drecera S 
La Gomorra S 
Memoria Histerica S 
Perepunyetes  S 

El Sistema 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
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Page Views: 1,049
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Dec 18, 2009

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El Sistema climbs in from the left then follows th...

Description 

El Sistema climbs a spectacular gray tufa streak, with the aid of the "juggy" pockets at the start of La Gomorra (to avoid the 8b+ direct start). This is not as bouldery as many routes at Margalef, requiring mostly good stamina. However, a good bit of finger strength is required for the strenuous crux traverse between the fourth & fifth bolts.

Begin with La Gomorra's burly start to reach the big hole below the fourth bolt. Rest well, then charge up and right into the gray streak. Awesome textured pockets lead up the streak to a series of vertical pods & awkward rests. The final perplexing pod leads to a smooth gray headwall and the redpoint crux: a strenuous highstep & lieback to reach a hidden jug. Big moves left lead to the anchor.


Location 

Begins up La Gomorra, cutting right after a rest in the big hole.


Protection 

~10 bolts to 2BA. Stick clip recommended.



Photos of El Sistema Slideshow Add Photo
El Sistema is on the left end of Espadelles & shares a start with La Gomorra.
El Sistema is on the left end of Espadelles & shar...
Resting at the big hole before the powerful pocket crux.
Resting at the big hole before the powerful pocket...
Comments on El Sistema Add Comment
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By Jorde
From: Barcelona
Jan 26, 2014

There are many 7c+'s at Espadelles. In my opinion this is the best