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East Gate Buttress
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Unsorted Routes:

El Segundo 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: unknown
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 674
Submitted By: bsmoot on Nov 20, 2010
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BETA PHOTO: Route 1 is The Flakes
Route 2 is Gran Hermano
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Description 

The traverse left offers hard, balancy moves...the crux. An amazing finger crack follows, which joins the main route at the upper lieback.


Location 

Climbs the thin left flake on the main "Flakes" route. Starts 15' up


Protection 

Same rack as for the Flakes, including some small nuts & cams



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By tenesmus
Nov 29, 2010

Edit to say that obviously someone else did this long ago. Either way, its my new favorite finger crack in the Wasatch.

The traverse has classic balancy moves under a cool feature. (And Hey! you're going left this time!) Once you get to the finger crack you won't be able to keep the smile off your face.

If you do it wrong, this crack would deserve a little bit of a pg13 rating. However, its easy enough to figure out a very safe way to do the start. Nice to find another all gear protected line out there.

By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Nov 10, 2013
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c

Cool variation, definitely worth doing if you've trudged all the way up there. The traverse moves are fairly stout and balancy with an unlikely crossover and crunchy feet. Once in the finger crack it's smooth sailing. If you do it wrong this crack totally deserves a fair amount of PG13 rating.
For variety I suggest finishing on El Tercero, a variation of the El Segundo variation which involves a one move leftward traverse of the upper tiny flake. Obviously it had never been done, I was the first one to notice it and I TRonsighted it so I'm claiming it. So proud.

By tenesmus
Nov 11, 2013

I'd forgotten about that funky crossover but had to do it that way too! Kinda cool body tension to make it happen. I resisted it and climbed up and down several times till I just gave in and did it. Then the fingers are just so locker.