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El Rito Sport Area
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El Rito Sport Area 


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Lat, Long: 36.3905, -106.1956 Map
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Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Anthony Stout on Jan 20, 2006

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Cobbles that wobbled long ago...

Description 

Fun, vertical to overhanging “conglomerate matrix of metamorphosed sand and mud with inclusions of smooth, rounded cobbles of all sizes. The cobbles, and the holes they leave when they fall out of the matrix, form excellent holds that allow relatively moderate climbing for such steep rock. Fully overhanging routes can be below 5.11, and anything less than vertical will probably clock in at 5.8 or below. All routes are sport bolted, so you can concentrate on the climbing instead of the protection.” (text copied from Gary Clark's online guide: www.lamountaineers.org/Elrito/sport.htm )


Getting There 


El Rito is located about 50 miles north of Santa Fe (please see a road map to find El Rito). From the east end of the village, turn north on Forest Road 44 (dirt). Drive 3.75 miles from the pavement, and park to the left just after the sign “Cañada del Potrero.” Camping is available at several locations up this spur road, which ends in about a half-mile. Now walk across the road to a trail paralleling it headed south. The trail crosses a bridge, then turns south up the sidehill to the crags. (~15 min.)


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for El Rito Sport Area:
Walt's Wall Waltz   5.7 PG13     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Walt's Wall (aka The Outsid...
Super Arete   5.8     Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Super Slab
Scurvy Dog   5.9     Sport, 60 feet   Pirate's Wall
Clast Action   5.9     Sport, 80 feet   Super Slab
Boltaneer   5.10a     Sport, 85 feet   Super Slab
Balls to the Wall   5.10b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   Gnar Wall
Blackballed   5.10c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   Gnar Wall
Blackbeard   5.10c     Sport, 80 feet   Pirate's Wall
Cobble Wobble   5.10c     Sport, 55 feet   Big Pine Wall
Village Cobbler   5.11b     Sport, 45 feet   Beer Block
Booty (aka Long John)   5.11b     Sport, 88 feet   Pirate's Wall
Jug-or-Naut   5.11b     Sport, 40 feet   The Balcony
Peach Cobbler   5.11c     Sport, 50 feet   Big Pine Wall
Walking the Plank (aka The Buzz)   5.11c     Sport, 75 feet   Pirate's Wall
Bolting Barbie   5.11d     Sport, 50 feet   Rad Wall
Stroke Me   5.12a     Sport, 50 feet   Rad Wall
Crack Attack   5.12a     Sport, 65 feet   Rad Wall
Pocket Rocket   5.12a/b     Sport, 50 feet   Big Pine Wall
Stoker   5.12b     Sport, 50 feet   Rad Wall
Against All Cobbs   5.12c     Sport, 50 feet   Rad Wall
Browse More Classics in El Rito Sport Area

Featured Route For El Rito Sport Area
Mike on Stoker.

Stoker 5.12b  NM : El Rito : ... : Rad Wall
Good route between Crack Attack and The Matrix. Start out pulling the hardest moves of the climb. Near the second bolt you can use a giant sloper for upward progress or traverse left, up and back right. After this section the climbing eases and a few rests allow some recovery. Rest up and head back to harder climbing with a few tricky moves and the redpoint crux high up. Be careful at the anchors of the large pine trees when the wind is blowing. While I didn't hit t...[more]   Browse More Classics in NM


Photos of El Rito Sport Area Slideshow Add Photo
When it's flowing, the creek at the beginning of the approach to the sport area can serve as an oh-sooo-good cold soak for your tired and achy hands. Makes for a good place to take a pic too (Cody and Miles H with friend Mattie). May 3, 2008.

When it's flowing, the creek at the beginning of t...

Looking at the sport area from the trad area.

Looking at the sport area from the trad area.

Ryan getting the HIV on everything!

Ryan getting the HIV on everything!


Comments on El Rito Sport Area Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 23, 2012
By Jerry Cagle
From: Tucson, AZ
Jul 4, 2006

Unless you have titanium testicles bring a stick clip. B1 is consistently well off the deck. This is an odd concept for my feeble mind to grasp. Why create a route with a serious groundfall risk on the start, then bolt the remainder into submission?

For purposes of comparison: If these routes were in AZ or CO they would usually get a full number grade less than the online guide gives for the difficulty.

Kudos to the developer(s) for the excellent lower out anchors. All sport routes would benefit from a similar setup. I'm sure the cost was not minimal.

Overall this is one of the best sport areas I've seen for both the average as well as the elite climber: Beautiful surroundings, nice approach trail, unique rock with interesting features. Clark's online guide is a gem. Well done Gary...!

By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Nov 27, 2006

"If these routes were in AZ or CO they would usually get a full number grade less"

Apparently you've never been to Shelf Road (CO) or Jacks Canyon (AZ) :)

By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jun 25, 2007

Gary Clark's naclassics.com website is no more but never fear! The online content from his site moved to the LA Mountaineers website including the excellent El Rito Sport guide.

By tim naylor
Sep 2, 2007

a full number grade, come on now. I think these routes are graded pretty similar to rifle, Where in Az has steep climbing like this besides "Dry Creek"?

By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jul 18, 2008

FYI, Gary Clark's PDF guide to the El Rito Sport Crags has been fully updated to include the 12 new routes that have been established since the PDF was last updated in 2006. Get it at El Rito Sport guide.

By ZachS00
From: Denver, CO
Feb 18, 2009

How will the temps be in mid-March?

By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Feb 18, 2009

It should be OK in March. The cliffs mostly face west so if it is cool you can just get a lazy start and climb in the afternoon. I doubt it will be too warm to climb in the sun but it can be hot in the summers forcing you to find shade after the sun comes around. I would guess 60-70 for day time highs but pretty cold in the mornings.

A word of caution, try to avoid driving in after dark on a Friday or Saturday night as the turn off onto the dirt road is a local drinking hang at these times and bad things have been know to happen.

By ZachS00
From: Denver, CO
Feb 23, 2009

Lee -

Seriously? That's somewhat unnerving. Thanks for the weather beta though.

By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Feb 23, 2009

Yeah several years ago some friends driving in after dark on a Friday night lost every window in their Tundra to a barage of rocks. I think if you are camping it's fine though as you are several miles in and the locals seem to just hang at the turn off.

By ZachS00
From: Denver, CO
Feb 24, 2009

Right on, we'll take notice, thanks.

By Scott Price
Mar 4, 2009

While I don't doubt the rock throwing incident, that is by no means the norm as I've driven in many a late Friday night and have never even seen a party.

A full number grade? Seriously. Often, the ratings seem off by a letter, but never more.

If the ratings are so soft, why the stick clip? In all seriousness though, it is certainly not necessary to have a stick clip for an enjoyable visit.

By manuel rangel
Nov 11, 2009

Nice area and well worth a visit. The routes were fun and graded close enough to true for me. Very user friendly. The rock reminded me of a couple cobblestone areas in Spain.

By jauernigg
From: edwards, co
Jun 18, 2010

had a fun trip there, felt the ratings were soft, and never felt the need for a stick clip

By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
May 19, 2011

As of two weekends ago the road was in very good shape and passable with a standard passenger vehicle. It did snow here in northern NM last night and today so it might be a little sloppy tomorrow but should dry up well by Saturday morning.

By Realseth
Feb 1, 2012

first of all, the routes here are no more soft or hard than anywhere else in the states. Ive climbed at shelf, the red, ten sleep, eldo, rifle, and many other places. every area has its hard routes and its sandbags..cant we stop arguing about the grade and just have some fun?

By Natalie Jaime
Apr 23, 2012

Spent last week here! First time! Really fun! Tons of great moderates! Recommend the Rad Wall! And Ojo Caliente hot springs rest day! (though try to go mon-thur, it's more expensive on weekends)
Great online guide! Would love more information on any further sport developments in the area.