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North Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Burley Dudes T,S 
Clear Lycra T,S 
Cup of Java S,TR 
El Nino T,S 
Hammerhead T 
Platte Magic T,S 
Traditionalists at Play TR 
Traditionalists at Work S 
Way Jingus TR 

El Nino 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13 [details]
FA: Tim 'the hudge' Hudgel and Carl Rasmussen (per Hubbel's old white book)
Season: spring through fall
Page Views: 369
Submitted By: slim on Jul 21, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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BETA PHOTO: The route is where the rope is.

Description 

Another Tim Hudgel slab classic, this is a great slab route. This is the 3rd route from the right on the north-facing Grey Wave Wall.

Start up on easy climbing with good edges and ledges to clip the first bolt. Head upwards past another 7 bolts with terrific climbing and numerous cruxy spots. I thought this route was a fair bit easier than Hammerhead but no less classic. There seemed to be more stances to re-group and recover. It is definitely better protected, but the average climber will still probably be uncomfortable at times.

Location 

This is the [4th] route from the left on the north-facing Grey Wave Wall. Approach up the rock gully.

Protection 

8 good bolts. Hubbel's book shows bolted anchors up to the left (not there). There is a sturdy juniper (needs webbing and rings) or old buttonhead/Stardryve bolted anchor to the right 30 feet (needs new webbing). Also, you can hike off along the ledge system to the right.


Photos of El Nino Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The anchor. Thanks, ASCA!
BETA PHOTO: The anchor. Thanks, ASCA!

Comments on El Nino Add Comment
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By Ralph Kolva
From: Evergreen, CO
Apr 12, 2015
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

I think this is the 4th bolted line from the left or the first bolted line left of Platte Magic. One old bolt with a home made hanger just below the juniper on the ledge.
By slim
Administrator
Feb 21, 2016

This route is currently the 4th from the left (as Ralph pointed out). When I first posted these routes, "Cup of Java", which is now the left most route, didn't exist.
By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
Feb 27, 2016
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

This route definitely feels easier than Hammerhead but is still a difficult slab.

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