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The Dark Side
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Whisper To A Scream 

El Guapo 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Ric Geiman, Bryon Dacus, 1989
Season: Year-round
Page Views: 542
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Jun 6, 2009
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"Would you say I have a plethora of pinatas?"

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Description 

EL Guapo is an excellent, bouldery line on the East end of the Dark Side cliff. The route is noteworthy for its two engaging, athletic roofs. These roofs each have a unique character, but both are difficult.

Begin with a short bit of choss to the first roof at 10'. Overcome this with powerful moves on generally large pockets. Once above the first roof, easy edges up the slab lead up & right to an easy stance below the next roof. This roof is remeniscent of the Gunks, with long lock-offs between huge jugs and a heel-hook or two. A good stance above this roof provides a nice rest before the final tricky section and a spicey runout to the chains.

Trivia: Apparently El Guapo is spanish for "The Handsome One", but is certainly more well known as the infamous villain of "The Three Amigos".


Location 

At the East end of the dark side, about 100 yds west of the approach chimney, lies a pillar with a prominent roof about 10' off the ground, above a stone terrace. Two routes ascend this low roof; El Guapo is the left-most of these two routes.


Protection 

~8 cold shut bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.



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