||Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
|Original: || YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]|
|FA: ||Drew Bedford, Stewart Middlemiss, Paul Fritze 9/99|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||46|
|Submitted By: ||drewford on Mar 29, 2008|
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BETA PHOTO: new routes on the East Gate
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Flakes and cracks lead up and left to a diagonal finger traverse.
Right beneath the descent from the Flakes. Can be approached from below by some 3rd class scrambling. See photo
Mainly bolts, but some rack with a few 1"-2" cams is needed
May 22, 2008
Killer position. Hard start that I'm still trying to figure out.
Nov 29, 2010
I worked on this a little this fall but it needs a little tlc. (read) If you come up here be sure to bring a wire brush. The start feels a little like Hong's pinch in reverse and with a cam and an extremely solid piton. The middle is classic LCC insecurity but the final traverse is fairly brilliant. This is one to train for and get psyched for.
Be sure to bring that brush. Oh yeah, best not to try it in direct sun and heat.