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El Face-o Diablo 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a

   
Type: Sport, TR, 25'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Linus Platt, 1990 (TR)
Page Views: 927
Submitted By: grk10vq on Oct 7, 2009
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BETA PHOTO: El Face-o Diablo

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Description 

Aesthetic and clean, El Face-o-Diablo will somehow leave you feeling a little dirty?

Deceptively difficult! What looks like a walk in the park, climbs more like a mugging. A thin and slippery start greets the unsuspecting climber. Hard to hold on too, the beginning for most will unleash a brutal beating. Thin crimps, shallow side-pulls, awkward feet, and off-balance movement make this more of a battle than a climb. If you can make it to the first bolt, keep your guard up, its not over!

Most always run as a top-rope, this route can be led, rehearsal is advised as the first bolt is well above the crux moves and about 15-18 feet high.


Location 

Set a few feet right of El Cracko Diablo, this route is the clean and cut face with bolts connecting to the same anchor.


Protection 

Three bolts and an a shared chain anchor. If top roping, use draws and the bolts which serve as invaluable directionals.



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By Linus Platt
Mar 7, 2010

I did the FA of this on TR in '90

By John Collis
Mar 29, 2011

Why is the first bolt on this so high? Seems stupid and dangerous to me

By Jeremy Steck
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 10, 2011

As of 10/11, the first bolt is starting to pull out.