|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 350', Grade II|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]|
|FA:||John Kear and Marc Ripperger, summer 2009|
|Submitted By:||John Kear on Sep 24, 2009|
|Comments on El Dueño||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Bill Lawry
From: New Mexico
May 29, 2010
Thanks for putting up the route, Marc and John! Was happy to climb it today after climbing The Sentinel.
A clarification about the start of the route: our approach was from the saddle behind The Sentinel. As one scrambles down along the base of El Paisano wall, one eventually reaches a low point and then starts to gradually regain elevation. El Dueno starts BEFORE reaching the lowest point when coming from The Sentinel's saddle.
P1: Get the start right; I did not ... instead paid with pretty severe runout followed by gear schenanigans before clipping the second bolt.
P2: Good pro; felt harder than 5.7+.
P3: As a good friend says, "Don't pass up the pro, bro;" and the top of the pitch felt uncomfortably run out but may feel better the next time?
P4: Cool exit from the roof; not so cool in detached-boulder count but maybe they've all been yarded on?
Aug 11, 2013
Climbed these today in the clouds. Surprisingly solid rock, making for a great day of "adventure" climbing. The start is indeed to the left of the low point of this formation. It is to the left towards the sentinel (we used the Torreon approach). Start is located between 2 small spruce trees (think shorter than you). I have included a photo of the start of Pitch #1. You can just make out the 1st bolt from the ground (see red circle in photo). The target area is a face section of red rock just beyond this 1st bolt. The second bolt (P1) is roughly shown in the photo.
NOTE - there is a LARGE spruce/fir tree to 20-25 feet to the left of El Dueno start - which has a nice groove leading to an overlap/roof that is about 40-50 feet wide. Eagle eyes will pick out a bolt about 10 feet above this overlap. This is NOT El Dueno, but most likely is El Painsano (see old Hill guide). This is a 1980's 1/4 inch bolt, and what is it going to hold??? (FYI).. and I did not see the second bolt described in the Hills guide.
El Dueno -
P1 - straight up to first bolt. There is a 20' section with no gear, but solid rock. Not for your 5.6 leader. After clipping the second bolt we encountered a bubbling stream - this section of the climb will have water flowing following previous days rains (especially during monsoon season).
P2 - Getting to the bolt (see second photo) felt hard!!! Made harder by getting shoes wet crossing stream... just keep chanting what would Kear do.. [Note wild flowers - we had a good Monsoon season this year, so things have really started to grow].
P3 - Nice pitch - steep for 5.6. Yes keep your eyes open.
P4 - Great exit from the roof, nice exposure. I trundled one 300 lb block from inside the corner (no yarding on it now). Most of the other boulders seemed solid.