El Diablo Wall Rock Climbing
Mike Beck on Malvado (5.13a), American Fork Canyon...
This is the lower wall below Hell Cave.
Park at the large pull out on the left hand side of the road about 3 1/2 miles up the canyon. Cross the street and walk about 25 yards down the road until you see the trail. Hike up the trail until you come to the short steep wall. Most of the draws on this wall are fixed.
Climbing Season For the Hell Area area.
Weather station 1.2 miles from here
18 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in El Diablo Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in El Diablo Wall
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for El Diablo Wall:
Heck 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Purgatory 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 43'
The Gateway 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
El Diablo 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport, Chipped, 1 pitch, 40'
Malvado 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport, Chipped, 1 pitch, 40'
Dead Souls 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Featured Route For El Diablo Wall
El Diablo 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b UT
: Wasatch Range
: ... : El Diablo Wall
This is a great route...and I think an American Fork classic. I've included this route as modified because I want to play by the rules of this site...and any route with a hold commonly referred to as "The Sika Pocket" is going to have to be suspect.Anyway, this route is 8 or so routes in from the right on the El Diablo Wall and shares the start with another classic "Malvado" (13a)...ask a local for beta. Another point of reference is the route "Inferno" (13b), which is one route to the left.St...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
Apr 15, 2013
The mileage is NOT very accurate. It's .65 miles from the flag pole at the cave visitor center (or whatever it's actually called). If you go too far you WILL find a large pull out, but you will NOT be near the right place. From the bottom end of the pull out cut back across the road, go up the fairly obvious trail (maybe 20 ft down the road) and it's only about 2-3 minutes up the hill.