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Penitente - Inner Canyon
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Unsorted Routes:

El Dedo Es la Llave 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Doug Ranck
Page Views: 712
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Jun 6, 2003
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El Dedo es la Llave.

Description 

El Dedo Es la Llave is the left-most climb on the Hueco Wall and tackles the roof at its steepest point. The route requires a long reach from one very good under-cling hueco to another, and my (5'4") partner had a slightly harder time than I did, but the holds over the roof are very big and make this a fun (but short) route.


Protection 

2 or 3 bolts + anchors.



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By Anonymous Coward
May 31, 2004

I think this is the LEFTMOST line on this wall.

By Ben Burnett
From: Colorado
May 26, 2009
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ E2 5b

LEFTMOST - The first bolt is very high, especially given that you would fall down the slab below the route as well, but the moves are easy getting to it (5.7 R, maybe). It's rare to get a roof that is this easy and that big.
edit:
Led this yesterday with a #2 Camalot in a pocket below the first bolt - before it becomes overhanging.

By William Mondragon
From: My car
Feb 10, 2012

Best on the wall if its the .10a I'm thinking of (the furthest left route).