BETA PHOTO: Matt taking a rest before climbing out from under ...
Haven't led this (so sad). 20' left of the tree on the black wall is a noticable V-slotted finger crack below a block. Fingers to good jams then move around the block. Rating is 10a and I think it's that all the way (look...a poet and I didn't even know it).
I thought the start was cake. If you put your back against the wall and jam the finger crack with your right hand and bridge your feet across the flaring chimney, you can get a good rest at every stance. Then the actual crux seems to be near the top. It might be easier for me because I have big feet, but since it flares it shouldn't be a problem unless you have tiny feet.
Setting the outside (left) knee onto the front wall and pressing the left foot in back is a good way for smaller folks to avoid foot bridging (which doesn't work if you got small feet!) Sweet route with interesting moves!
By Shane Zentner From: Colorado Mar 15, 2004 rating: 5.10a6a18VI+18E1 5a
Flared chimney with perfect finger/small hand jams to the roof. I found the first twenty five feet hard and sustained. I jammed, stemmed, smeared, and grunted to the roof where the climbing became easier. Pull the roof and use both sides of the crack to get to the anchors. I placed two yellow metolious cams in the finger crack.
Detailed gear beta. Red alien and .5 camalot (purple) in the V-slot. Green alien under the roof. #3 camalot on the right side of the block. Yellow and blue TCU's in the finger crack on the left on the block.
Sustained route, but fun pretty especially the 2nd time around. Pulling up onto the block is by far the easiest part and also has a good rest just before it. I was tempted to give it 3 stars, but given all the other great cracks around Moab I couldn't. Definately worth doing though.
I thought it was hard and awkward, especially with the (for me) off-fingers crack in back. Then I realized I was actually secure and not falling out of the thing. Its good to challenge yourself with something a little less straightforward sometimes. Plus, no lines for this one. Enjoy!
This route destroyed me. I'm a bigger dude (175lbs 6ft tall) and so I had to do the craziest moves in the flaring offwidth section. Watch out for those small surprise holds that help you get through the offwidth though (they are there). The two cracks up top are a cinch, until the very top were they taper out. Probably the second crux in the climb (besides the insane offwidth section). Not a bad climb, almost threw-up cause it exerted me so much :)
The crux is definitely at the top. If you're struggling hard on the bottom portion, you're doing it wrong. I found the small cams that protect the crux a little worrisome but it's all there if you commit.
I enjoyed this route even though everyone in our group really struggled on it. I think I had the easiest time in our group (not that it was even remotely easy) because I'm smaller and could fit my lower body into the flared chimney part and actually chimney up it. I barely used the crack in the back except to help balance myself. Can't wait to try it again sometime!
The route was total off-width hell for me. I ended up just jamming my shoulder blades into the flaring crack and smearing up ... not the finger crack fun I was hoping for, but still interesting. I actually enjoyed the rock humping upper cracks.