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El Cracko Diablo 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 3,959
Submitted By: Darrin Stein on Jan 1, 2001
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BETA PHOTO: Matt taking a rest before climbing out from under ...

Description 

Haven't led this (so sad). 20' left of the tree on the black wall is a noticable V-slotted finger crack below a block. Fingers to good jams then move around the block. Rating is 10a and I think it's that all the way (look...a poet and I didn't even know it).


Protection 

Set of cams and a .5 TCU near the top.



Photos of El Cracko Diablo Slideshow Add Photo
End of the V-slot.
End of the V-slot.
Unknown climber on top section of El Cracko Diablo
Unknown climber on top section of El Cracko Diablo
climber on El Cracko
climber on El Cracko
Eddie just cruised up this, pretty good practice for you toe - heal foot holds.
Eddie just cruised up this, pretty good practice f...
El Cracko
BETA PHOTO: El Cracko
Photo of Eddie Bruzdzinski
Photo of Eddie Bruzdzinski
Awkward moves at the start
Awkward moves at the start
Chrissy jamming up El Cracko Diablo
Chrissy jamming up El Cracko Diablo
Nearly out of the flared chimney on El Cracko Diablo. Petite climbers can fit right in! So much fun, maybe one day I'll lead it :-)
Nearly out of the flared chimney on El Cracko Diab...
Comments on El Cracko Diablo Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 10, 2013
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Dec 20, 2001
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

The Route seems more awkward than difficult. I found myself a little more knotted up than in your general desert corner.

By Anonymous Coward
Feb 25, 2002

I thought the start was cake. If you put your back against the wall and jam the finger crack with your right hand and bridge your feet across the flaring chimney, you can get a good rest at every stance. Then the actual crux seems to be near the top. It might be easier for me because I have big feet, but since it flares it shouldn't be a problem unless you have tiny feet.

By Anonymous Coward
May 13, 2003

Setting the outside (left) knee onto the front wall and pressing the left foot in back is a good way for smaller folks to avoid foot bridging (which doesn't work if you got small feet!) Sweet route with interesting moves!

Jackie

By Shane Z
From: Colorado
Mar 15, 2004
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Flared chimney with perfect finger/small hand jams to the roof. I found the first twenty five feet hard and sustained. I jammed, stemmed, smeared, and grunted to the roof where the climbing became easier. Pull the roof and use both sides of the crack to get to the anchors. I placed two yellow metolious cams in the finger crack.

By Holly Barnard
Mar 29, 2004
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Detailed gear beta. Red alien and .5 camalot (purple) in the V-slot. Green alien under the roof. #3 camalot on the right side of the block. Yellow and blue TCU's in the finger crack on the left on the block.

Sustained route, but fun pretty especially the 2nd time around. Pulling up onto the block is by far the easiest part and also has a good rest just before it. I was tempted to give it 3 stars, but given all the other great cracks around Moab I couldn't. Definately worth doing though.

By martin kocsis
Apr 8, 2005
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

marvellous! the sort of route three parties walked past saying "maybe next time...". a word to the wise: you must do this route...when you've done so you'll know why!cheerio!

By Marty Brenner
From: Durango, CO
Oct 13, 2006

I thought it was hard and awkward, especially with the (for me) off-fingers crack in back. Then I realized I was actually secure and not falling out of the thing. Its good to challenge yourself with something a little less straightforward sometimes. Plus, no lines for this one. Enjoy!

By BHMBen
From: The Deeper South
Oct 19, 2008

Good, solid stone...

By Skyler Penrod
Apr 12, 2009

The crux is definitely at the top of the double cracks. Bear hugging a move or two once you reach the finger crack until you reach the jugs seems to be the way to do it. Great route, fun moves.

By Rob Davies UK
From: Cheshire, UK
Oct 27, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Easier than some 5.8s! Treating the v-groove as an offwidth, ignoring the finger crack except to place gear, makes it almost trivial (gritstone Severe) but it's best to keep moving on the top section.

By Hendo
From: Denver, CO
Oct 23, 2012

This route destroyed me. I'm a bigger dude (175lbs 6ft tall) and so I had to do the craziest moves in the flaring offwidth section. Watch out for those small surprise holds that help you get through the offwidth though (they are there). The two cracks up top are a cinch, until the very top were they taper out. Probably the second crux in the climb (besides the insane offwidth section). Not a bad climb, almost threw-up cause it exerted me so much :)

By Fat Dad
From: Los Angeles, CA
Jan 11, 2013

The crux is definitely at the top. If you're struggling hard on the bottom portion, you're doing it wrong. I found the small cams that protect the crux a little worrisome but it's all there if you commit.

By Megan Henderson
From: Ogden, Utah
Jul 10, 2013

I enjoyed this route even though everyone in our group really struggled on it. I think I had the easiest time in our group (not that it was even remotely easy) because I'm smaller and could fit my lower body into the flared chimney part and actually chimney up it. I barely used the crack in the back except to help balance myself. Can't wait to try it again sometime!