BETA PHOTO: some of the cliffs... so much to climb
Located approximately 45 minutes from Málaga, El Chorro is one of the largest and most popular climbing destinations in Andalucía. Sport climbing tends to be the most popular, although long, multipitch, traditional lines exist. El Chorro is also home to the very popular el Camino del Rey which is used to access some of the climbing areas.
The rock is very pocketed limestone that is not always of the most confidence-inspiring quality. That is to say, most routes are well-traveled and quite clean, although one is bound to knock on a few hollow flakes. The limestone faces are typically vertical to off-vertical, but very steep routes do exist at a few of the crags. Like much of Spain, bolts are abundant and routes rarely feel runout.
Camping is possible, but hostels and bed & breakfasts are nearly the same price. There are a variety of options in the village of El Chorro, and other accommodations very near to the town. For more info about lodging check out the classifieds on UK Climbing
There is a small grocery store in El Chorro, but if you need to stock up drive to Álora or buy before you leave Málaga.
El Chorro is a great Fall/Winter/Spring destination, as summers are very hot and shade is often difficult to find. Climbing in summer is doable, but expect temperatures to be in the 90's or greater and bring suntan lotion.
There are two quality guidebooks for the area. The first is "Málaga Rock Climbs - El Chorro", a spiral bound book that is written by a local climber. It is pretty good and available at the gear shop in El Chorro, but it would be helpful to know some Spanish. The other is from RockFax and is available from both their website and at the gear shop. However, take each with a grain of salt, as they both contain errors or a lack of information.
El Chorro is probably the best climbing destination if you don't want to rent a car. There are many options for getting here. To get to Málaga either: Fly into Madrid and take an AVE train (~77 euro) from the Renfe Atocha station to Málaga Maria Zambrano OR fly into Málaga. From Málaga, you can rent a car (probably your best bet) or take a train to Álora or El Chorro from Maria Zambrano (~4 euro). Trains frequently run to Álora, and about once a day to El Chorro, so plan ahead. If you take a train to Álora, you can hire a taxi or take a bus.
Once in El Chorro, you can walk to many (though not all) of the crags or carpool with other climbers. If you want to get the most out of your stay rent a car so that you can climb anywhere, buy groceries, and drive to nearby towns on rest days.
Weather station 23.9 miles from here
117 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',20],['3 Stars',48],['2 Stars',32],['1 Star',16],['Bomb',1]
Classic Climbing Routes in El Chorro
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in El Chorro
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for El Chorro:
Featured Route For El Chorro
Madre Salvaje 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Europe
: ... : El Triangulo
Move up and left to a prominent ledge, then make a few reachy moves on mostly good pockets, sidepulls, etc. Head right for a rest or take the direct version straight up (harder) and work into the weakness. Then cut right towards the tufa (very long perma-draw here as of 11.21.15) and fire up into the crack. Another rest can be found here to take some of the sting out of the pumpy exit moves. Brilliant climbing....[more] Browse More Classics in International
The campground, with a look at the restaurant.
A shot from the campground, notice zones las front...
Nice lunch at the restaurant past the far end of C...
By D. Durrant
From: Utah, USA
Jul 16, 2010
Great climbing area with quality, varied climbing for all types of climbers. We stayed in the campground and found the "restaurant", and bar to be a cheap place to eat, drink and talk with other climbers. There is a small climbing shop in El Chorro, and a small grocery store. Note: if you come to El Chorro via train and bus, be aware that there is limited service on the weekends and holidays.
By Ryan Williams
From: London (sort of)
Feb 29, 2012
The best kept secret in Spain! A lifetime of climbing in a beautiful setting, no crowds, cheap food and accommodation and excellent and relaxing Spanish mountain villages to enjoy on rest days.
I agree that the rock quality on some of the routes under 5.10 is not always excellent, but I climb here a lot and don't recall ever being on any route over 6b that wasn't bombproof.
Check out the Olive Branch for a relaxing place to stay... Gary and Mel are awesome and you are a 5 minute walk to Las Encantadas and about 25 from Frontales. They currently have a car for rent for 15 Euro per day if you don't want to rent one from the airport. They will also pick you up in Alora for 15 Euro or you can catch a train directly to El Chorro. If going in winter, it is completely reasonable to spend weeks in El Chorro w/o a car. Over a thousand routes that bath in the sun all day are w/in 30 minutes walk or less. If the weather is hot, you'll need a car to drive to shady areas at higher elevations.
From: North Vancouver
Dec 27, 2012
Hello! I'm a Canadian hoping to climb at El Chorro for a week sometime in Feb/March, as an offshoot of a trip with family. I won't have any climbing partners...can you offer insight on how easy it is to arrive & connect with others to climb? and to get around? I'm a female, ~40yr, leading mod 10's and can follow 11a. I would bring rope/gear. Thanks!
By Matthias Weiss
Nov 11, 2014
At present, the camino del Rey is closed due to rebuilding of the whole trail. According to local sources, it is supposed to open again in spring 2015. Until then, access to the routes in the first canyon is virtually impossible. Please don't try to use the camino while it is still under construction. Fortunately there is still more than plenty of climbing in the sectors outside the canyon