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b. Gelsa to Moe (closure)
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El Camino 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c R

Type:  Trad, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Alex Lowe, Russ Clune, Dan McMillan (1982)
Page Views: 427
Submitted By: Jon Clark on Apr 23, 2012
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This is a rather serious lead. Most will TR (easily setup after leading Transcon). However, for the solid 5.11 leader it can provide a very memorable and rewarding onsight experience!

Start at Roseland and traverse left along a ramp until you are a bit right of Transcon. Head straight up the steep face above, and pull a difficult and somewhat bizarre mantle maneuver (crux) to a stance. Climb the face (second crux) up and right. From here, steel nerves and a marginal placement in a shallow, flared horizontal will get you to the anchor.


Same start as Roseland.


3/8"-1" cams (blue through red aliens; doubles of yellow and red helpful), small to medium wires

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By Jeffrey Dunn
Mar 10, 2014

Bring the two smallest c3's.