BETA PHOTO: The taller right side of El Camino with a climber ...
This west facing wall is the spot to warm up. It is not uncommon for there to be more than 20 people at this cliff, there are however about 30 routes so while crazy it works. The rock is layered in a way which leads to many incut holds on the steep wall. For the most part the rock is great, all the choss has been cleaned by the constant traffic that the routes receive.
The guide for the wall and the updates available are inacurate. The best idea is that all the tall routes on the right side of the wall are 5.12 a or b with the exception of one 5.12c (Jurria de los Perros) in the middle and one or two easier routes at the far right. All the routes on the shorter left hand end of the wall are 5.10+ through 5.11+. Just get on what is open and looks good.
Here is a list of routes from left to right (as of Dec 2009). Routes with plaques are indicated. Many of these plaques are very difficult to find:
1. Que Majete, 5, plaque. 2. Agoria, 6b+, plaque. Left of blue streak. 3. ZWO, 6c, plaque. Right of blue streak. 4. Bugs Bunny, 6a+, plaque. 5. Felipe el Hermoso, 6c. Gray tufa at start. 6. Futuras Promesas, 6c. At right end of a low ledge. 7. Mas Tortura, 7a+. Flake at start 8. Ven Abente, 6c+. Tufa start, left of dark brown streak. 9. Yo Que me Se, 6b. 10. Para Mis Amigos, 6a+, plaque. Begin above boulder, at undercling flake. 11. Sonrisa Vertical, 6b. 12. Vlur, 6c. 13. La Llarva, 7a. 14. Los Lores, 6c. 15. Vidal, 6c. Immediately left of bush. 16. Bonny, 6b+. Shares start with "Clyde", goes left. Begins immediately right of bush. 17. Clyde, 6b. Shares start with "Bonny", goes right. Begins immediately right of bush. 18. Good Txingu Good, 6b+. Right of high seam/crack 19. Tarzanin de Muniellos, 7a+. 20. El Pupas, 7b. Begin at left end of low ledge. 21. Lo Tienes Claro, 7b. 22. Conejo Caliente, 7a+. 23. Toma Castanazo, 7a+, plaque. Gray, left-facing flake at start. 24. La Jauria de Perros, 7b+, plaque. 25. Billy el Rapido, 7a+. 26. Orgasmica, 7b, plaque. Right-facing orange flake 8' up. 27. El Psaciclico, 7b. Shares start with "Estampida", goes left. 28. Estampida, 7b. Shares start with "El Psaciclico", goes right. 29. Donde esta Wally?, 6c+. Left-facing flake at start. 30. La Tenada, 6c+. Gray streak at start. 31. Knuff, 6b, plaque. 32. Espartanas, grade unknown (looks easy), plaque.
From the sign panel at the top of the canyon turn right up through some homes then back left along a higher trail that follows the rim of the canyon. Eventually the trail will drop down two switch backs and the wall will be obvious just infront of you, it rises right out of the edge of the trail so you can't miss it.
An excellent low 12, featuring big moves on mostly enormous holds reminiscent of the Red River Gorge. The start will involve a dyno or two for all but the freakishly tall. Balance up the trembling cheater tower to reach a set of tiny mail slots. Paste your feet & move up to the ledge. A big throw leads past the blank section above the second bolt. An awkward pinch move leads to jugs & the sprint for the top. The climb slabs out just before the top, where a few tenuous crimps lead to the an...[more]Browse More Classics in International