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Ejaculation 

YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 55'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: R. Kraft 1997
Page Views: 24
Submitted By: Shawn Heath on Oct 24, 2011

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Andy navigating his way through the crux at the to...

Description 

Very fun route with a continuous change-up of style. Climb up big holds to clip the first bolt, then balance out onto the shallow 2 finger pockets to get up to the 2nd and 3rd bolts. Snatch the big pocket to clip the 4th bolt, and work through some good holds up to tiny ones again at the 5th bolt. Balance up into the jug and haul up to a good no-hands rest at the 6th bolt. Haul up the jugs past the 7th bolt and navigate your way through the maze of good and not-so-good holds to reach the top. Work out left to get to the anchor.

Protection 

8 bolts + pigtail. The last bolt is rusty and half sticking out of the rock. The fall onto the 7th bolt isn't bad if you don't clip the 8th.


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