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Ben Dover S 
Eileen Dover S 
Pincher, The S 

Eileen Dover 

YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Chris Miller, July 2000
Page Views: 854
Submitted By: Russ Walling on Sep 14, 2009

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Keenan Herbon leading Eileen Dover 10.23.2011. Gre...

Mountain Project continues to expand with Hiking Project, and we're giving away loads of gear from Arc'Teryx, Superfeet, & Zeal. Check it out!


Start on the blunt arete with a bouldery crux. Clip a high bolt and continue moving left along the handrail, clipping whatever bolts you can reach or find. Some of these bolts may be on the Pincher, or as you get higher, maybe even Ben Dover. Continue up and left until you decide to head to the anchors. Sorta cool moves on ok rock. The fall for the follower is not so good. Be alert. The ground is very close.


This route is around the corner to the left of Fun Stuff, on the end of the formation. Can't miss them. This is the first route you will encounter on the right end of the short overhanging wall.

These routes have anchors at the top or you can down climb to climbers left.


8 bolts, anchors (all 3/8")

Photos of Eileen Dover Slideshow Add Photo
Climber Sean Naugle. Photo by Michael Levato.
Climber Sean Naugle. Photo by Michael Levato.
Those slabby feet are harder than they look.
Those slabby feet are harder than they look.
Climbers on Eileen Dover (5.10b), Joshua Tree NP
Climbers on Eileen Dover (5.10b), Joshua Tree NP
Eileen Dover (5.10b), Joshua Tree NP
BETA PHOTO: Eileen Dover (5.10b), Joshua Tree NP

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By C Miller
Sep 16, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Starts on the far right end of the wall and does a rising traverse left to join Ben Dover and finish up that route. 8 bolts total (dark brown hangers to start) if you clip all that you can - long draws are handy on some bolts.
By Lucas Dunn
From: San Marcos
Feb 6, 2013

This is the best one on the wall, kinda hits the best part of all 3 routes. All the climbs are good warm up's with good rock and really fun moves.
By Phil Esra
Mar 15, 2015

Fun route; tricky crux start, then pumpy jugs. Clipped 7 bolts.
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