Eighth Voyage of Sinbad
||Trad, 10 pitches, 1800', Grade V
|Original: || YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]|
|FA: ||Jimmy Dunn Dean Tshappat 5.10 A4 1974, FFA Jimmy Dunn Leonard Coyne, Oct.1980|
|Page Views: ||1,016|
|Submitted By: ||Jay 1975 on Jun 9, 2009|
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BETA PHOTO: the line that we believe very much to be "Eig...
Follow th first 2 P's of stoned oven to the big chunky ledges, then drop down 15' and right 40' to the 3rd pitch.
P3- it shows this as the .11+ corner, its more like .11a and about 150' long, belay on ledge w/huge boulder.
P4- head up right facing 5.8 corner to roof heading right and then continue up right facing corner at about .9+ to another ledge belay, 150'.
P5- head up a left facing corner of sweet single and dbl. hand cracks to an optional belay on slab to the left 10' after a face traverse. we continued up the steep face and seam that exits to runout face moves and then back into the sweet dbl. corner of fingers at about .10+, the pitch was .12a, it was supposed to be .9. belay on good ledge at a flake that gear goes behind the top of. this was about 205'.
P6- head up a left facing corner for 20' then onto the face of sketchy flakes and face holds towards the arete, sick exposure!, then leftish back towards the left facing corner at about a heady .11b. about 100'.
P7- continue up the very shallow hand crack left facing corner at .10, then right under and around a 10' roof that turns the corner at about .10+. the whole time here you should be looking left right at the "enduro corner" of stoned oven. continue up the face at runout .9+. belay at the base of the off-hands crack of the 9th pitch in the guide. ( one could bail onto the stoned oven escape ledges at this point, as we did because of light and water).
P8- (P9 in the guide) looks sweet! heads up flared hand crack to the base of the O.W. pitch.
P9- climb the 4-7" o.w. for about 60' into the 4-5" 5.10 crack, then right to a hanging belay.
P10- head up a .10+/.11a left facing corner to the end of the "womb fight" area then a 5.9 ramp to the rim.
We tried this route twice, because of being off route the first time and the second not having enough light and water. we have consorted the guide topo and a topo that Leonard sent us and were on route the second time, but the grades were definitely "old school"! this is a full value grade 5 and is totally worth the effort by worthy parties! I can't wait to finish it! a good strategy would be to rap down and leave water and food at the triangle belay at the o.w. pitch, pretty easy to find from leaning over the top of the wall. if anyone has any imput that i have gotton wrong, i would love know and/or update the post.
i believe the start for modern times is the same as Stoned Oven, at the 5.10 O.W. the pitches i will describe are what we climbed, not as the topo shows, the general direction is right but the decriptions and grades are way off or "old school"!
it is a full on grade 5 climb though, we still haven't finished up the o.w. at the top.
i will attempt to upload my topo of the route.
dbl. sets tcu's, dbl. set of cams from .5-#6,extra #1 and #3 cams, nuts, 17 runners, 70m rope
BETA PHOTO: "Eighth Voyage of Sinbad"
By Rob Kepley
Jun 10, 2009
Sign me up for the next voyage!