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Starts above number on the ground or first ledge. Read it was rated at 5.9 but feels a lot harder. First two moves at the bottom are the most difficult into off camber small chimney that leads to sloping top out. Most of the route trys to throw you out to the right.
It's on the right side of the Lowers. Wait for it......in front of the number 8.
Top rope off of Army cable and anchors. The route is well bolted too.
Number 8 is a cruel mistress constantly trying to ...
|By Josh Alfred Fernandez|
From: Suburbia, BIG change Dudes
Aug 4, 2009
The route based on size and height of climber, I believe should be taken into consideration. For myself, topping out at only 5'5" to 5'6" the route is a mental trip. The moves are a bit more difficult. I would relatively rate the route @ 5.10. Climbed mainly using TRAD gear. Absolutely NO bolts; nut placement is critical and crucial. I would hate to take a nasty whipper from the exposed bulge section in the middle section of the climb and have the nutz pop right out. The vertical crack can be well protected with cams. Found climbing this section easier by performing a sort of weird stemming movement but with counter pressure to keep body position and movement somewhat fluid throughout the first section prior to committing to the bulge. At this point you become fairly exposed and are well out and away from the beginning of the first section. Hard to find gear placement. If you are eagerly charged and have the right mental focus it is possible to climb through this section with with minimal gear placements. BUT be advisedů it is hairy. I find that the exposed bulge section of the climb is actually the crux. Considering the fact that gear placement is minimal, then correctly placing the first piece of gear to protect yourself is nerve racking. The crack system that is more of a groove vs. a true finger crack provides NO good protection. Again, gear placement in the bulge is crucial in the event you take a whipper sliding off of the top of the bulge. Make sure that your belayer has HIS game on or you will hit hard into the big blocky section right below.