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i. Train in Vain Sector
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L to R R to L Alpha
Demon In My Semen S 
Econoline S 
Eight ... No. Ten! S 
Flex All S 
Flex in Vain S 
Sighting, The S 
Train in Vain S 
Train In Vain Direct Start S 

Eight ... No. Ten! 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Scott
Page Views: 179
Submitted By: Climberdude on Aug 13, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: Eight...No. Ten!

Description 

Climb face through 3 bolts.
Then a bit run out to 4th bolt. Clip 5th bolt and roll to anchors. Stay away from the choss!
Harder climbing right of bolt line all the way to the top.


Location 

10' right of Demon


Protection 

5 bolts



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By Scott Taber
Mar 15, 2014
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

Don't know why this is rated 5.9. The crux seems to be the blank face between the last 2 bolts and is more like a 5.11. We sat there on the ledge staring at the crux for about 10 minutes trying different things and had a very difficult time getting past it. It sure wasn't a 5.9 in our book. Not even close. Maybe a hold broke off?