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i. Train in Vain Sector
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Demon In My Semen S 
Econoline S 
Eight ... No. Ten! S 
Flex All S 
Flex in Vain S 
Sighting, The S 
Train in Vain S 
Train In Vain Direct Start S 

Eight ... No. Ten! 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Scott
Page Views: 447
Submitted By: Climberdude on Aug 13, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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BETA PHOTO: Eight...No. Ten!

Description 

Climb face through 3 bolts.
Then a bit run out to 4th bolt. There is a rotten, chossy section to your left. stay away! (goes with out saying, really)
Clip 5th bolt and roll to anchors.
Harder climbing right of bolt line all the way to just beyond the last bolt then immediately move left.

Stay away from the choss on descent also.

Location 

10' right of Demon

Protection 

5 bolts


Comments on Eight ... No. Ten! Add Comment
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By Scott Taber
Mar 15, 2014
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

Don't know why this is rated 5.9. The crux seems to be the blank face between the last 2 bolts and is more like a 5.11. We sat there on the ledge staring at the crux for about 10 minutes trying different things and had a very difficult time getting past it. It sure wasn't a 5.9 in our book. Not even close. Maybe a hold broke off?
By Will Fenwick
Jun 27, 2016

I would agree with the stiffer than 5.9 comment from above. Tricky moves once you're above the big landing/ledge in the middle of the route.

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