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Eigerwand 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 700', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: John Long, Randal Grandstaff, Randy Marsh 1981
Page Views: 625
Submitted By: Ben Folsom on Oct 20, 2008
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Maura coming up pitch 1 of Eigerwand on the Angel ...

Description 

Pitch 1- begin up the initial corner of Sandy Hole and then climb left into a crack and shallow, brown dihedral. Climb this past some loose sections passing quite a bit of bail gear & slings to a gear belay at a fixed nut. (There are also slings around a very loose pillar which I wouldn't use or touch). Approx. 200 feet. 5.8

Pitch 2- Continue up the crack above and over a tricky bulge. The crack quickly runs out and when it does, move right and up on a white face past a good stopper placement and up onto a low angle slab. Once on the slab, climb right to join Sandy Hole and belay wherever looks good in this vicinity. 5.9

Pitch 3- Climb up and then right for about 25 feet to below a wide, splitter crack. This splitter climbs right over the tunneling pitch on Tunnel Vision. Unfortunately there are some unnecessary bolts below the splitter and before where you reach the belay below the tunneling pitch. These bolts are new and are placed next to a splitter 1.5" crack. It must be from the Tunnel Vision variation. 5.4

Pitch 4- Climb the wide splitter, then move left into a curving corner system. Belay from gear at the top of a pillar and nice ledge. 5.7

Pitch 5- Climb up a left facing corner for 20 feet until it steepens, then traverse left for 25 feet and up the corner above to the top of a pillar and belay from gear atop this pillar. 5.6

From the top of this pillar, it is an easy walk off descent. (The same descent as for Tunnel Vision).


Location 

The route starts the same as Sandy Hole and climbs the first 30-40 feet of that route, which is located about 30 feet left of the start of Tunnel Vision.


Protection 

Stoppers and a set of cams to 4"



Photos of Eigerwand Slideshow Add Photo
Maura climbing onto the lower angle slab above the white face on pitch 2 of Eigerwand.
Maura climbing onto the lower angle slab above the...
Following on the third pitch.
Following on the third pitch.
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By Ben Folsom
Oct 20, 2008

Notes- Pitch 1 was a bit loose, but the looseness is avoidable with care. Pitch 2 had an intimidating start, but then the 5.9 "poorly protected face" actually seemed mellow with a really good stopper placement. We combined pitches 2-3 very easily (with a 70m), avoiding an uncomfortable belay in the Sandy Hole.