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Little Eiger
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"Is Our Children Learning?" 
Abney 74 
Animaniac, The 
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Black Hole 
Bonehead 
Busch Gardens 
Bush Administration 
Closet Climber 
Conehead 
Decider, The 
Delusions of Grandeur 
Disembowler, The 
Eiffel Tower 
Eiger Direct 
Eiger Sanction 
Fire Face (Project) 
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Headline 
Herbal Essence 
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Misunderestimate 
Naked Hedge, The 
Natural Selection 
Nordwand, The 
Persistent Vegetative State 
Radometer in the Red Zone 
Smoke on the Water 
Tierra Del Fuego 
Too! 
Trouthead 
Truly Scrumptious aka The Animal 
Tsunami Of Charisma 
Unknown 
Unsorted Routes:

Eiger Sanction 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Ken Trout - 1991
Page Views: 2,415
Submitted By: Jeff Lockyer on Aug 17, 2001
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (66)
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Below the upper crux.

Description 

This route is located to the left of 'Eiffel Tower'. This route is very straightforward with a sloping topout and tricky feet towards the 5th and 6th bolts. The first half of the route climbs through a vegetated crack and easy terrain. A great route, the only thing it lacks for this type of route is continuity, the difficult moves don't last very long, but are enjoyable.


Protection 

9 bolts - open cold shuts anchor.



Photos of Eiger Sanction Slideshow Add Photo
Topo for the left side of the Little Eiger; "Headwall" area.   <br /> <br />After one of my kids took a huge fall on Bonehead and another guy at the crag told me he broke his ankle on it, I rebolted my old routes to make them more fun for family and friends.
BETA PHOTO: Topo for the left side of the Little Eiger@SEMICOL...
Starting up.
Starting up.
Steve Thomas leading the Eiger Sanction.
Steve Thomas leading the Eiger Sanction.
Comments on Eiger Sanction Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 24, 2012
By Jason Carter
From: Monument, CO
Jun 27, 2002

This line lies just to the right of Trouthead 10c/d and just to the left of Eiffel Tower 10d; it is the 5th line in from the 'cave' on the left side of the crag. A great line with delicate face climbing a thin layback and a sloping topout. 2nd and 3rd clips seemed difficult, but overall the climb seemed well protected as long as you get the 2nd bolt clipped. A great 7-bolt line that offers a variety of climbing moves. I don't recall any vegetation on the route as the description states.

By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
May 5, 2003

This used to be an exciting lead for the grade. Now that bolts have been added to this route, the only thing that you have to worry about is Z-clipping.

By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
May 5, 2003

I also would like to know what's up with the retrobolting on this route and others in the vicinity. The extra bolts on this climb seem for the most part unnecessary although the new finish is a good idea. Whoever it is, please don't redo the route to the right (Eiffel Tower) and consider removing the fourth bolt on Eiger Sanction

By Kyle Turner
From: Brighton, CO
Jul 29, 2004
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

Fun route with a challenging left handed pinch before the overhang for a .10 leader. Highly recomended.

KT

By Kyle Turner
From: Brighton, CO
Oct 29, 2004
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

opps wrong route, was talking about the first pitch of too..

By Kevin Neilson
From: Boulder
Sep 11, 2005

Because "Trouthead" has been added, this route is no longer the next to the right of "Headline", but is directly right of "Trouthead".

As a sidenote, in case you are not aware, the name of the route was taken from a novel which was adapted into the best climbing movie of all time. I know; the body of climbing films does not constitute a rarified genre. However, this 1975 film, directed by and starring Clint Eastwood, comes highly recommended and contains some realistic climbing. You'll see some old-school hip belays and hexes, though.

By Gold Plated Rocket Pony
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 17, 2008

The 2nd bolt seemed a pretty spicy with ground fall possibilities. The 6th both gave me some issues. I could have approached it wrong, but after a number of tries I couldn't seem to clip it prior to committing to the set of thin moves (I'm 6'1" btw). I ended up taking a bad fall here slamming the wall with my hip. It was fun up until that point.

By Matt Bolt
From: Lakewood
Apr 26, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

Want to add some spice to this climb, do it in the rain. Just barely missed the on site today because it started raining about time I started smearing. Lots of fun though.

By Sean Wolf
From: Denver, CO
Jun 4, 2010
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

There are now nine bolts not including the anchors. I absolutely loved this climb. Lots of thin balancy movement and some cool climbing on the flake before the crux.

By pat thompson
From: superior
Jun 21, 2011

Technical climbing with a very thin finish. Thank goodness for the nylon jug at the exit slab moves. 11a anyone???

By robbie s
From: littleton
Sep 24, 2012

Great route, tricky climbing to get past the 2nd bolt, but thoughtful foot work is the key.... A shame there is so many unneeded bolts on it...but skipping bolts 3 and 5 make it exciting again.... I thought it to be harder than Eiffel Tower, for I got the onsight on Eiffel, and fell 2 times at the top of the Eiger Sanction...slopey feet /, and a hard to find crimp at the top... make it a stout onsight, but solid at the grade...10+.