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Ego Tripping 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jeff Frizzel
Page Views: 599
Submitted By: Tradoholic on Oct 20, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: Climbs left of the rope line.

Description 

Left corner from "Into The Sun" this climbs the face and if you stay left goes easier than the 10a rating in the book. The rounded arete that might share holds is "Electrocutioner" a 5.8+ FA'd by Jim Thurmond solo.


Location 

Starts just right of the corner, left of "Into The Sun".


Protection 

Bolts



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By J.Flunker
Nov 17, 2010
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Rope is on "Electrocutioner" anchors I believe...
"Eletrocutioner" = arete route. 5.8+/5.9. Thurmond route.
"Ego Tripping" = face route to the left of "into the sun". 5.10
2 bolted routes total left of "into the sun".

By J. Frizzell
Dec 28, 2012

Did I screw up the bolt job? It starts left to right and I don't recall The electrocutioner being in play. Perhaps I was too focused on the desired line and denied the proxsimity. A bit of a rating descrepency as well. This doesn't surprise me. The crux is pretty hard if you don't see it. I happened to see it the first time thus the 10a grade. Jack it and its definately harder. Sweet finish huh?

By Kate Mittendorf
From: Nashville, TN
Nov 15, 2013
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I think this route is mis-described. It is my belief that this route is describing the now-bolted electrocutioner (previously in the guide as TR, I think). At least based on the description that you can use arÍte holds and the rope placement in the picture. If you tried to ascend the face it'd be probably 9-9+ as the submitter rated it. I think the route in question is the bolt line left of Into the Sun (starts behind a tree and if you wanted to "stick clip" you could stem the tree). There's no way the route I am thinking of touches the arÍte. It's a true face route that is every bit of 10a. Probably one of the more sustained 10as at the falls, IMHO.

By Eric O'Rear
May 19, 2014

^ Kate is spot on. You're looking for the bolt line following the very-close-to-the-wall tree. Complete face climb. Sustained 10a. Excellent climbing and very cool hold offerings (patience is a virtue).