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I gave the route 3 stars. Keep in mind that only applies to folks who like hard slab climbing. Then again, if you don't like hard slab, then you need to find another route.
Pitch 1: (5.10 b/c) Climb up the smooth face past a bolt. Optional protection between this and the next 2 bolts (I guess there is a place for a pink tricam, but I've not used it). This pitch is fun all on its own, and works well to get to the ledge where you can link up with a few other routes. Belay from the anchor just left and up from the pine tree.
Pitch 2: (5.11c) Slab/thin face climbing. Think friction, you will need it. Not recommended on a hot day.
From the anchor, take a few steps right and start up the smooth slab. This part was much harder than I thought it would be. Climb using dime edges and crazy body tension past bolts towards the small overlap above (crux). At the crux overlap, there is an OK rest but not much. Then try to find your way over or around this feature. I tried to go left where it was cleaner and fell a few times. My partner went a little right where it was kinda dirty and made it nice and clean. Bottom line is that the sequence is not obvious. After this, head up angling slightly right up the relentless steep slab. I remember only one "real" rest, balancing on a small foot hold crimp. Continue up to the big ledge and belay from a tree.
Typing this brings back happy nightmares....
The pitch is 130 feet with 13 bolts, so though it's not a crazy runout by slab standards, it isn't too sporty either.
Starts a few routes to the left of Three Birches (5.8) up a face, below and to the left of a large pine tree growing about 50 ft up the cliff.
13 quick draws can get you there, but a pink tricam may be desired on the 1st pitch.
Pitch 1: three bolts and a pink tricam.
Pitch 2: 13 bolts.
|By Tim J.|
From: Loudon, NH
Jul 6, 2009
This is a great route even if you're just following the second pitch like I did. Prepare for sore calves and big toes. The first pitch is fun with a very brief and well bolted crux. I used a blue tricam in the pocket midway up. I'm not sure a pink would be quite big enough.
|By Jay Knower|
From: Plymouth, NH
Aug 7, 2009
I've been on a bunch of 5.11 granite slabs (even sent a few of them), but Ego Trip is BY FAR the most sustained slab climbing I have ever tried. Though the overhang is the technical crux, the bigger difficulty is keeping your wits about you for the 45+ minutes it takes to climb the pitch. By the top, my mind was as fried as my calves--and I was seconding.
I wonder how many people have sent this cleanly in recent years. It's one thing to bust out a few 5.11 slab moves. It's a whole other thing to be in the 5.11 slab zone for what seems like an eternity.
From: Newmarket, NH
Aug 7, 2009
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a
I certainly will never lead this climb, but I have tr'd it a few times and agree that it is very difficult and VERY sustained. In the 10+ years I have been climbing on cathedral I've only seen one party trying to lead it.
|By lee hansche|
From: goffstown, nh
Aug 7, 2009
I attempted to lead it onsight and ended up with a one hang (or a few hangs on the one crux move if i remember right)... the bolt placement isnt "sporty" but its safe for sure... I found it quite mild compared to Western Lady which is slightly more moderate but the bolts are way more spread out... I really want to get back on ego trip and send it so you might see another party leading it one day :)
|By Chris Graham|
From: Bartlett, NH
Nov 23, 2009
I would agree with Tim J about the tricam. When I first did the route I couldn't get the pink or red to work in that pocket, the blue fit really well and I have used that piece exclusively on the first pitch. Some folks just skip the gear placement and run it out to the next bolt, but for the short time it takes to drop a tricam in, I prefer to protect the moves to the third bolt. Great route!!!
|By burlap submariner|
Sep 27, 2011
hole between the second first and second bolt on the first pitch takes a good red alien if placed sideways and rotated. the overlap is the crux on the second pitch for sure but the rest of the route is sustained 10, if you can do the crux you should be able to finish the route.
|By Matt Desenberg|
From: Wells, Me
Nov 11, 2013
P1: Lots of fun, I agree with the tricam beta. The alien works but isn't confidence-inspiring to a wimp like me.
P2: Thin and excellent climbing. This is the sort of route where the holds are JUST big enough to convince you to keep going. The overhang stumped me, have to go back and try again!