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Shovel Point
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YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a R

Type:  Trad, TR, 2 pitches, 160'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Rock Kollath
Page Views: 503
Submitted By: ferrells on Jan 29, 2008
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Best to climb the second pitch only. The first pitch is a dirty, boring 5.9, but the second is an imposing overhang with a challenging exit.
This route is well worth the effort of setting up to toprope, and it is out of character for most of Shovel Point. The moves to get through the roof are classic, and the exit from the roof is a tricky, balancey little sequence. Best to bring aiders, and know how to use them if you pop off below the roof, or can't do the sequence. Bring a draw or two as well so you have something to work with if you need help at the bolts or anchor.
Leading is a different beast on this one. I never did it, but you could rap to the middle anchor and lead the thing from there. It's all bolts except the top slab. The slab really doesn't seem to have any gear. There may be some hiding somewhere - you'll have to look. If there isn't any gear, that would be a 5.9+ sixty foot solo above the bolts in the roof. I do not recommend taking a 120 foot fall onto these bolts.
The bolts, however, do look good (check for yourself to be sure), and they are very well placed for the section tackling the roof.


Locate the big overhang below from the top of the cliff, and work your way to the climber's left side of the roof. No routes go directly up the overhang yet, so expect to pull the roof by heading left around it. You should be able to see the intermediate anchors on the face below when you get to the roof, and there will be a line of bolts leading from them.
Take care not to set up to the right of the roof.


TR - make an anchor.
Lead - Some bolts, but not enough. Do some careful scouting, or risk an endless fall on geriatric bolts.

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