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 ADVANCED
Bob's Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Air Soles T 
Bob's Crack T 
Cartoon Watcher T,S 
Depends S 
Ego Buster T,S 
Flakes T 
Groundhog Day T 
Hot Foot and High Step S 
Power Pig S 
Special Bob S 
Top Dawg S 
Top Rope Slab TR 
Twist and Shout S 
Unsorted Routes:

Ego Buster 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,498
Submitted By: Stephen Nance on Aug 29, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
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Description 

Climb to the ledge then follow 3 bolts next to seam. Finish up and left, pull a small roof (easier), then go up into the dihedral to a 2 bolt anchor.


Location 

This is on the middle right side of the rock.


Protection 

Quickdraws and maybe a few cams small to medium-sized.



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By Jordan Winters
From: Minturn, CO
Jun 18, 2009

Super fun route combining technique/ power/ and balance - use the same anchors as 'Flakes'

By MikeS
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 13, 2009

Excellent and challenging for the grade, your ego just might get busted. As for the lieback section at the top of the "Flakes" route, a #2 Camalot at the bottom and a #0.4 in the horizontal a bit higher protect it well. An additional #1 is really all you need.

By nate post
Apr 26, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

I really enjoyed this climb. I did not have any cams with me, so that made the last 40 feet to the anchors feel a little bit spicy. I would definitely climb this again. I thought it was at least 11a, if it was 10c, then the other 10c "Hot Foot & High Step" was 10a. That or maybe I just don't like my ego busted. Haha!

By Lee Jenkins
From: Buena Vista, Colorado
Apr 29, 2012
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

It is more like .11a. Hot Foot is .10a/b.

There is also an unnamed 5.11 to the right. 5 bolts plus gear.

By Todd Felix
Jul 26, 2013
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

'Climb to the ledge' to start the route. Well there are several ways to do this. What is the typical start for this climb?
1. 20 feet climbers' right is a moderate corner start, but this will offer no protection to a second who ascends the same start (you could probably fiddle a nut, but it would be too low to protect the 2nd and may pull out with the sideways pull to the next bolt). This is also way off the line of the climb and out of character with the rest of the route.
2. Right side of the direct face up to the ledge. Unprotected with a bouldery start (5.10 if short, easier if tall). Not too bad but a bit scary. I wonder if a bolt in this section would be prudent (but might need to be stick-clipped to protect the bouldery start). Without a bolt, it's not too bad, but it is run-out. It makes a great start to the route.
3. Left side of the direct face up some liebacks (there are actually 2 variations here too). Also a bouldery start and would make a scary lead (I TR'd this start). 5.11-ish the way I went. This would make a great start to the route, but it is dangerous. Perhaps a bolt in here would be prudent? Probably would need to be stick-clipped or it would be hard to clip. I think there was opportunity for a piece of gear in a horizontal, but that's pretty high up past some hard climbing.

And I think it was 4 bolts, not 3. And it's definitely harder than 5.10c.

By Lee Jenkins
From: Buena Vista, Colorado
Sep 7, 2013
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

Todd. The start is the same as the unnamed 5 bolt 5.11 to the right.
Climb the runout face directly below the 5.11 bolt line.

Most people TR both routes.

A new bolt would be frowned upon since this route has been climbed without it forever!