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Red Springs Rock
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Welcome to N.I.M.B.Y. (Not In My Back Yard) Town S 
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Eggs Over Sleazy 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Chris Weidner January 23, 2013
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 469
Submitted By: Chris Weidner on Feb 4, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: Eggs Over Sleazy

Description 

This route ascends the smooth and vertical varnished face about 15 feet right of Classic Corner (5.8). Expect a bouldery start and thin climbing throughout.


Location 

From the base of Classic Corner scramble rightward up rock bobbles to a flat belay stance about 15 feet below the first bolt. Scramble to a small ledge to clip the first bolt.


Protection 

7 bolts to chains.



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By Mark Limage
Feb 6, 2013

Put some top-rope anchors in and eventually somebody will drill it up for lead! This has happened to my TR anchors more times than I can remember...which is just fine as I can't afford all those bolts/hangers. Glad somebody thought it was worth drilling up. I'm doubting this went in ground-up and instead, like I did 12 years ago, you banged a hard right half-way up Classic Corner. Does the name have some particular meaning?

By Chris Weidner
Feb 7, 2013

Hey Mark, good to hear from you.
I didn't even see your anchors (great camouflage) - even with binoculars - until I'd rapped in from the very top of the cliff. They appeared old enough that I wasn't worried about the face being somebody's current project, especially having first scoped it over a year ago.

I placed a new anchor with 1/2-inch bolts about 8 feet lower (and removed your hangers), which made more sense for lowering.
The name is loosely related to our old dog Slamball, who likes it when we start words with the letters SL.

Thanks for the post. It's nice to know you put that anchor in and checked it out 12 years ago. The route is well worth doing.
Cheers, Chris

By Mark Limage
Feb 7, 2013

Cool. Thanks for sharing. Here's to old dogs...SLow, SLobbering, SLuggish, SLumping, SLovenly, beer-SLurping, SLap-happy, SLumbering old dogs! Cheers to Slamball!

By Chris Weidner
Feb 8, 2013

Haha Mark, brilliant! Thanks for some great laughs!!