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 ADVANCED
Echo Cove - East Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ashtray, The T 
Crossroads T 
Effigy Too T 
Familial Feud TR 
Halfway to Paradise T 
Hatfield Arete T 
Hatfields and McCoys T 
Inhaler S 
Jughead T 
Mis-Matched TR 
Misfits T 
Nitwit T 
No Mistake or Big Pancake T 
Real McCoy, The TR 
Snatch, The T 
Solo Dog T 
Teething Toy T 
unknown T 
Unknown 1 T 
Wit T 

Effigy Too 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Matt Cox and Dave Evans, 1975
Page Views: 1,764
Submitted By: M.Morley on Jun 25, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (52)
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Mike Morley on the upper section of Effigy Too.

Description 

Effigy Too is located just left of the bolted Crossroads. The crux is encountered in the first 15' of climbing and protection is a little bit tricky. The difficulty eases up substantially (5.8ish) after that. Gear belay.

Descent: walk off down chimney to the south.

This would be a 3-star route if it were a bit longer.

Protection 

Pro to 2 inches, TCUs to protect the crux off the deck.



Photos of Effigy Too Slideshow Add Photo
Effigy Too and friends... - cragcam
BETA PHOTO: Effigy Too and friends... - cragcam

Comments on Effigy Too Add Comment
Show which comments
By Adam Catalano
From: Albany, New York
Apr 23, 2006

Amazing start. Bouldery but not too difficult. We found you can protect the crux pretty well with a #2 stopper. Once you get to the prominent crack feature, its just fun cruisin' from there.
By Edward Jenner
Nov 1, 2006
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Good route, definitley worth doing and not even close to 10b - jugs and decent feet means any 10 climber will breeze throught the lower section.
By DJ Reyes
From: Northern Nevada
Apr 7, 2008

I definately agree with the rating as the first moves are quite bouldery. Above the difficulty eases quite a bit, but it still keeps your attention.
By Richard Shore
Nov 14, 2011
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

As mentioned above, a small stopper can be placed high from the ground to protect the opening moves (I clipped mine with a single 'biner). Be aware that you are in groundfall territory before you get your next piece, though the hard climbing is long over. Above this, the rest of the route is 5.8 max. No really small stuff is needed.
By Tim Wolfe
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 21, 2012
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

I always thought the start was a bit scary and the route stouter than its original 5.9+ rating
By Vitaliy
Jun 4, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Oct 26, 2013

Start is still pretty hard and in my present condition I'm rating this thing 5.6 V9.

To set an anchor, have a couple of cams in the 2" to 3" range and a few big nuts. A long extendo (20ft) will help you out with getting the anchor over the lip for easy TR action.
By Vitaliy
Dec 17, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

As of December 15 2013 - someone broke the key hold (little triangular hold) which was crucial for the opening sequence of moves.
By Joe Brophy
From: San Diego
Oct 26, 2014

Thanks for posting the video. The hold missing is the one Dave's left foot is on. It had been a few years since I had been on it. So I climbed this on Friday and thought 'Wow, what am I missing to make it so much harder'. Now I know. I will not say how much harder it is, just that it makes this route not be a gimme any more.