Edward's Crack, Left Exit 5.4 PG13
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Description From the stance described in "Location," traverse left on friction to a stepover onto the upper slab. There is bolt protection for the final, short runout to the top of the formation.
Location The route or variation begins at an obvious belay stance 20 feet below the overhang. The same stance as for the Right Friction Finish.
Either walk off the back or rappel.
The Walt's Wall Route anchors are easily accesible.
Protection Only a single bolt protects this lead.
| Comments on Edward's Crack, Left Exit |
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By Rodger Raubach
Apr 17, 2011
| This is a pretty unprotected, albeit easy, alternative to the direct exit on Edward's Crack. I have always thought this to be a "spicy" variation, and it is "old school" 5.4. Most visitors think that is a "sandbag." |
By Dave Bohn aka "Old Fart"
Apr 21, 2011
| That's funny, because I always felt it way, WAY over rated at 5.4.
I've taken at least a dozen people, who's only previous climbing experience was one or days at an indoor gym, up Ed's using the Left Exit.
I much prefer that, to Walt's for a "first timer's climb". |
By Rodger Raubach
May 29, 2011
| BITD, we used to think this was a 5.3, but the Kelman guidebook rates it as "5.4." The sparse protection and nice exposure can make an impression on beginning climbers.... |
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