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Ed's Jam 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,579
Submitted By: joet on Sep 8, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
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BETA PHOTO: 2nd pitch highlighted in black

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The first pitch (5.2) follows the ramp on the far right of The Bend center area to a belay ledge beneath a tree ~15 feet above. Second pitch (5.8) goes up the crack just left of the tree and then moves left to hand crack for another ~55 feet.

Location 

For rappel, follow trail west to chains at top of Pure Joy (The Bend West) - single rope.

Protection 

Gear to 3 inches. Build anchor for 1st pitch. Bolts at second pitch.


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By JimM
Nov 7, 2010

This route has always been done as one pitch. You can approach from the ramp to the west (class 3) and belay from the ledge or start from the ground directly below the route. Either way the route goes in one pitch. 140 feet from the ledge or 180 feet from the ground.
By Erroneous
Oct 28, 2012

FA Ed Mosshart
By J. Aloysius
From: Seattle, WA
Oct 13, 2014

Excellent climb - at least 30m of all manner of sweet consistent hand jamming from .75 to #3 camalot. One of the longer single pitch mostly pure handcracks I've been on in Washington as of this writing.

Guidebook says double rope rappel but we found there is a new looking single rope rap route straight down from where you belay on top of the climb. A second set of chains under a small overlap is visible from the ground, climber's left of Ed's Jam and right of the highly rated 10a in the guidebook.
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