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Fun climbing on interesting features, but may be considered fragile and runout, with tricky gear placements, and rated X (though opinions vary on this.) Makes a great toprope route. Start at the corner on a low ledge and climb the right-leaning flake ( a short, skinny staircase,) then move up through the crux as you get onto the beautiful varnish. Continue up the steep wall which goes slightly past vertical in spots, until reaching a small unvarnished notch. Then climb up onto the ledge to reach the anchor.
The furthest left route on the wall with the bolted moderates. Starts at the corner to the left of the small barrel cactus. The anchors can be reached from the top by rappeling from a two-bolt anchor above Silk Panties. To reach this anchor, walk past the tower on which Cover My Buttress and Thong are located, then scramble left up ramps until reaching a ledge above and to the left of Cover My Buttress. Rap from the anchors to the ledge below. There is another pair of bolts on the wall backing this ledge to clip into while managing the rope. This ledge goes across the top of the Panty Wall to the far corner where the anchors for Edible Panties are located.
Bring nuts and small gear. The bolted anchor is located on the wall above and behind the ledge.
|Comments on Edible Panties
|By John Wilder|
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jan 6, 2011
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a X
the lower half of this route is certainly run-out, if not totally unprotectable- and on semi-friable rock. The upper portion is nice and im sure protectable with stoppers, although i'm not sure i'd want to take the whip- the rock seems less solid than its beautiful (and much better protected) neighbor.
Jan 24, 2011
1/21/11 - the LVCLC/ASCA replaced the only mildly manky shuts with 1/2x2.75 SS and Fixe double ring hangers.