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 ADVANCED
Lakeview Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Edgestacy 
Guppies with a twist 
Lakeview 
Squeeze Job 
Zinnea's Zen 

Edgestacy 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c R

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Jeff Lauschey, Monty Reagan
Page Views: 439
Submitted By: TomCaldwell on Nov 25, 2009
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Description 

One of the finest edge and face climbs at the Bald. Rivals Snap, Crackle, Pop's P3 for fun steep face climbing. You will surely be in edgestacy after bagging this one.

Start same as Guppies in the Mist. Difficult bulge start with no pro leads to unprotected moderate slab climbing. Follow undercling flake feature with good feet to the first piece of gear below bolt. Move up through rails to the first bolt and start the bulge crux. Thin sustained edges through the bulge protected by gear. Double up on the TCU placement after the #4 solution hole for another runout to the small piece below the second bolt in a funky flake feature. Clip the second bolt and move right through easy terrain to the Lakeview Rap bolts.


Location 

30' left of the Lakeview start.


Protection 

Draws, single rack, mandatory #4 camalot or old style #3.5 camalot.



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