|Type:||Trad, 7 pitches, 800'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]|
|FA:||P1 & 2: Bob Gaines and Clark Jacobs, 8/92. P3 & 4: Bob Gaines, Todd Gordon & Bob Austin, 7/97, Complete route: Bob Gaines & Charlie Peterson, 8/98|
|Season:||Spring through Fall depending upon conditions|
|Submitted By:||Murf on Feb 24, 2006|
|Comments on Edgehogs||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Chris Owen
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Mar 4, 2006
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
|Wander up to a bolt anchor for pitch 1. I cheated and rapped off from the top of pitch 2 so I'll only describe my impressions of that...I have 5.11b scrawled in the margins of my dog-eared guide. There was a very tricky bit for me at the beginning of the second pitch, which felt quite hard. I failed to clip a bolt (got distracted by someone telling me I was off route, they thought I was on MMT) just before heading left up wavy/undulating rock - this gave me increasingly scary moments before getting to the next bolt - luckily I didn't fall. I brought Tony up and when he got to my missed clip I said to him "you'd think someone would have put a bolt right there" - he replied with "there is one".|
By Scotty Nelson
May 11, 2006
Be sure to move left onto the face at the end of pitch 2. I took several falls trying to climb directly up the arete.
Also, I cut my rope when I slipped off pitch 4. I was tryign to climb up the arete (off route again -- you move left) when I slipped off. The rope scoured along the edge of the very sharp arete and it was cut almost halfway through. Very scary. I retied in below the cut and finished the pitch, quite shaken.
By Adam Kimmerly
Jul 19, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
A great route! Pitch 2 has some incredibly sustained climbing with constantly cruxy climbing. The rock is clean, but not buffed to a porcelain polish. Protection is definitely adequate, but not overabundant. The pin on P2 is gone - bring small nuts or cams to protect that section.
So hard to pin a rating on this one, but I'll try. Here's our pitch breakdown.
P1: 5.10a. The topo in the guidebook has a minor error - the bolt (home-made angle steel hanger) appears before the pin. Small cams and some nuts can supplement those two.
P2: 5.10c. The money pitch. Long, sustained, and full of well protected cruxes. The move off the belay isn't that bad once you figure out the beta. The technical crux arrives about 2/3 of the way up when you wander slightly left away from the arete, smearing up the mildly featured slab. The pin after the second bolt it missing, but a small nut or small-med cam can help protect that section.
P3: 5.10d. Short, but scrappy! I thought the moves past the 3rd bolt were harder than any moves on the second pitch. A piece or two of small nuts/cams might add to your comfort on this one.
P4: 5.10b. One crux appears passing the roof and the second slapping up the arete a good distance above the last bolt (Scotty commented that this is off-route, but I disagree). A few carefully placed small nuts and cams again protect the upper crux on this one.\
P5: 5.9. A fist crack up off of the belay wanders up easier cracks (I may have gone too far left at this point and was likely off-route) to an awkward roof section, then a thin crack in a left-facing corner to a belay about 30' below a big overhang in a left-facing corner. Thin to med gear for this pitch. No bolts or pins were seen.
P6: 5.10a. Scramble up to the overhang and pass it via some funky stemming/bridging, then climb up, then right on runout slabs to join Whodunit at the tree below the 5.2 roof.
P7: 5.2 Scramble to the top.
By Nelson Day
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Aug 26, 2013
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
|P4 on this was an intense lead. The pro in the last 50 feet to the anchors is bad and extremely fiddly. A heads up pitch for sure. The rock is somewhat dirty, slippery and exfoliating, which adds to your concerns (probably due to the fact that this route turns into a water fall when it rains - I witnessed this first hand). I destinctly remembering wanting to shit my pants near the top of the 4th pitch when I was 40 feet above good gear and looking at another hard(er) series of movements to easier terrain (arete slapping/laybacking, smearing on lichen covered rock). I had some questionable gear that might have held closer to me, but it wasn't great. The best pitch is pitch 2 for sure. A brilliant pitch. I would recommend doing the first three pitches. The fourth isn't that great and very mental. Contrary to the description by the OP, all the anchors on the first 4 pitches are bolted with rap rings, and you can rap down with 2 ropes. If I had brought my DMM offset nuts, the 4th pitch may have been much more casual... I looked at the topo after getting down and there is supposed to be a piton up there, but I didn't find it.|