Edge of Time
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Edge of Time is an alternative start to get to the beautiful hand and finger cracks above the Big in Japan anchors. The cracks were originally climbed as the latter half of Thin Slice in Time. However, this is a more logical and much better way to get to the cracks than doing Thin Slice (no offense to Thin Slice's FA party).
Begin by scrambling up the low-angle shale ramp in the yawning chimney right of Big in Japan. After about 20 feet, climb obvious holds up the overhanging wall of the chimney then step around the corner and up to a point right of Big in Japanís anchors. Follow incipient cracks leading right and up, close to the edge of the chimney, and continue to the finishing cracks.
Right of Big in Japan.
Standard trad rack. Belay on top from gear. Walk off or rap from anchors atop of Encore. Turning the corner onto the Big in Japan face may warrant a bolt, although the gear seemed okay to me. Iíll place a bolt if some consensus forms that it is needed.
By Spencer Weiler
From: SLC, UT
Apr 24, 2012
Would recommend thin slice over this variation. Sorry.
By John Steiger
Apr 27, 2012
No sweat Spence, to each his own. How did you find the protection getting out of the chimney and onto the face? I'm thinking about putting a bolt in to protect that section.