Edge of Time  5.10-

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet Consensus:  5.10- [details] FA:  John Steiger, Brent Manning, Sept. 12, 2008 New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  John Steiger on Oct 5, 2008 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

Edge of Time is an alternative start to get to the beautiful hand and finger cracks above the Big in Japan anchors. The cracks were originally climbed as the latter half of Thin Slice in Time. However, this is a more logical and much better way to get to the cracks than doing Thin Slice (no offense to Thin Slice's FA party).

Begin by scrambling up the low-angle shale ramp in the yawning chimney right of Big in Japan. After about 20 feet, climb obvious holds up the overhanging wall of the chimney then step around the corner and up to a point right of Big in Japan’s anchors. Follow incipient cracks leading right and up, close to the edge of the chimney, and continue to the finishing cracks.

Location 

Right of Big in Japan.

Protection 

Standard trad rack. Belay on top from gear. Walk off or rap from anchors atop of Encore. Turning the corner onto the Big in Japan face may warrant a bolt, although the gear seemed okay to me. I’ll place a bolt if some consensus forms that it is needed.