Edge of the Sun 5.10
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| Type: | Trad, 3 pitches, 400 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10c [details] |
| FA: | Dave Wonderly & Warren Egbert 1988 |
| Submitted By: | Larry DeAngelo on Jan 1, 2005 |
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Pitch 2 on Edge of the Sun.
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Description This route climbs the small face and just to the right of Five Pack. Pitch 1: climb the arete and adjacent face to a good belay ledge. Pitch 2: go straight up the face with a few protection bolts and some gear placements to a bolted belay station near a big overhang. Pitch 3: climb left and up past protection bolts to a ledge beneath the final headwall. Climb straight up to a belay station at the top. Rappel the route. Be careful of rope snags on the numerous flakes and horns. Alternatively, continue to the top of the Magic Triangle.
Protection Standard rack
BETA PHOTO: Routes on the Bottle: A) Bottle Bill, B) Five Pa...
| The beginning of pitch 3 on Edge of the Sun.
| Final pitch, final sequences on Edge of the sun
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| Comments on Edge of the Sun |
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By John Hegyes From: Las Vegas, NV Sep 17, 2005
| Can you rappel this route with a single 60 meter rope or do you need two ropes? |
By Larry DeAngelo Administrator Sep 18, 2005 rating: 5.10c
| Rappel needs two ropes. Be careful of the 64,389 snaggy little flakes and horns on the face below and to the right. |
By Guy H. From: Fort Collins CO Oct 17, 2007
| Has anyone attempted to link the first two pitches together with a 60M rope? |
By meo Oct 21, 2007
| The 3rd pitch is one of the best I've done. The dean said it was one of the best pitches he's ever done. Great face climbing with equally great exposure. The first pitch wanders a bit. I would not try and combine the 1st and 2nd. |
By Tim Wolfe From: Salt Lake City, UT Feb 21, 2010 rating: 5.10b/c PG13
| The first two pitches are approach pitches for the third which is the interesting and fun climbing. Pitch 2 is a bit run out. To rappel and avoid rope snag - rap down to bottom of 3rd pitch, then over the lip straight into the canyon where you will find another rap point and won't hang up ropes (steep and clean). |
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