This route climbs the small face and just to the right of Five Pack. Pitch 1: climb the arete and adjacent face to a good belay ledge. Pitch 2: go straight up the face with a few protection bolts and some gear placements to a bolted belay station near a big overhang. Pitch 3: climb left and up past protection bolts to a ledge beneath the final headwall. Climb straight up to a belay station at the top.
Rappel the route. Be careful of rope snags on the numerous flakes and horns. Alternatively, continue to the top of the Magic Triangle.
Pitch 2 on Edge of the Sun.
BETA PHOTO: Routes on the Bottle: A) Bottle Bill, B) Five Pa...
Final pitch, final sequences on Edge of the sun
|By John Hegyes|
From: Las Vegas, NV
Sep 17, 2005
Can you rappel this route with a single 60 meter rope or do you need two ropes?
|By Larry DeAngelo|
From: Las Vegas, NV
Sep 18, 2005
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rappel needs two ropes. Be careful of the 64,389 snaggy little flakes and horns on the face below and to the right.
|By Guy H.|
From: Fort Collins CO
Oct 17, 2007
Has anyone attempted to link the first two pitches together with a 60M rope?
Oct 21, 2007
The 3rd pitch is one of the best I've done. The dean said it was one of the best pitches he's ever done.
Great face climbing with equally great exposure. The first pitch wanders a bit. I would not try and combine the 1st and 2nd.
|By Tim Wolfe|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Feb 21, 2010
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
The first two pitches are approach pitches for the third which is the interesting and fun climbing. Pitch 2 is a bit run out. To rappel and avoid rope snag - rap down to bottom of 3rd pitch, then over the lip straight into the canyon where you will find another rap point and won't hang up ropes (steep and clean).
|By Justin Streit|
May 10, 2014
So where does this actually start? A friend and I went to the base of this thing and there are three or four options around the right side of the arÍte, none of which look good. There is also an easy looking crack on the left side of the arÍte, but that doesn't seem to be on route according to Handren. Any help?