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Magic Mountain
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Advanced Placement T 
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Bottle Bill T 
Brain Drain T 
Bro's Before Holes T 
Cartwright Corner T 
Chocolate Cornhole T 
Chocolate flakes T 
Community Pillar T 
Dark and Long T 
Edge of the Sun T 
Five and Dime T 
Five Pack T 
Honeycomb Chimney T 
Magic Triangle T 
Masquerade T 
Saucerful of Secrets T 
Small Purchase T 
Texas Longneck T 

Edge of the Sun 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 400'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Dave Wonderly & Warren Egbert 1988
Page Views: 910
Submitted By: Larry DeAngelo on Jan 1, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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The beginning of pitch 3 on Edge of the Sun.

Description 

This route climbs the small face and just to the right of Five Pack. Pitch 1: climb the arete and adjacent face to a good belay ledge. Pitch 2: go straight up the face with a few protection bolts and some gear placements to a bolted belay station near a big overhang. Pitch 3: climb left and up past protection bolts to a ledge beneath the final headwall. Climb straight up to a belay station at the top.

Rappel the route. Be careful of rope snags on the numerous flakes and horns. Alternatively, continue to the top of the Magic Triangle.


Protection 

Standard rack



Photos of Edge of the Sun Slideshow Add Photo
Pitch 2 on Edge of the Sun.
Pitch 2 on Edge of the Sun.
Routes on the Bottle:  A) Bottle Bill,  B) Five Pack,  C) Texas Longneck,  D) Edge of the Sun
BETA PHOTO: Routes on the Bottle: A) Bottle Bill, B) Five Pa...
Final pitch, final sequences on Edge of the sun
Final pitch, final sequences on Edge of the sun
Comments on Edge of the Sun Add Comment
Show which comments
By John Hegyes
From: Las Vegas, NV
Sep 17, 2005

Can you rappel this route with a single 60 meter rope or do you need two ropes?

By Larry DeAngelo
Administrator
From: Las Vegas, NV
Sep 18, 2005
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Rappel needs two ropes. Be careful of the 64,389 snaggy little flakes and horns on the face below and to the right.

By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
Oct 17, 2007

Has anyone attempted to link the first two pitches together with a 60M rope?

By meo
Oct 21, 2007

The 3rd pitch is one of the best I've done. The dean said it was one of the best pitches he's ever done.
Great face climbing with equally great exposure. The first pitch wanders a bit. I would not try and combine the 1st and 2nd.

By Tim Wolfe
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Feb 21, 2010
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13

The first two pitches are approach pitches for the third which is the interesting and fun climbing. Pitch 2 is a bit run out. To rappel and avoid rope snag - rap down to bottom of 3rd pitch, then over the lip straight into the canyon where you will find another rap point and won't hang up ropes (steep and clean).

By Justin Streit
May 10, 2014

So where does this actually start? A friend and I went to the base of this thing and there are three or four options around the right side of the arÍte, none of which look good. There is also an easy looking crack on the left side of the arÍte, but that doesn't seem to be on route according to Handren. Any help?