Edge of Reason
||Sport, 3 pitches, 250', Grade II
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a [details]|
|FA: ||Gaar Lausman Nov 09|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||Not Sunny or Rain|
|Page Views: ||1,306|
|Submitted By: ||Gaar on Dec 20, 2009|
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|***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>|
Climb dead vertical to overhung face below cosmic trauma..The route ends at a chossy break just below the summit.
P1 60ft 5.11c..Step off the pillar and climb big sidepulls and sharp edges to the first crux at the 4th-5th bolt. Trend left to a two bolt anchor at the left.
P2 90ft 5.11c..Step left off the belay to good stance and climb overhanging crimps just right of the flake system, when possible reach out and climb the flake to a 2 foot roof. Clip the fixed draw and climb the 2nd crux on a hard sequence of decent holds. (while at the fixed draw look right and ponder another sequence through the blankness) after the roof work back toward the center of the wall.
P3 5.11- 90ft.. The money pitch. Head straight up the wall following good holds, and long reaches to an good stance below a 3 foot roof. Make your way through the roof on huge hidden holds and a handjam or two finish right at the anchor.
Climb/scramble/solo the first pitch of Spacshot and begin on the pillar to the left of the start for the 2nd pitch.
12ish draws and slings.. Single 60m rope
Potato chip crimping at its best!! p2
Zach at the route crux p2
looking down between the legs on rap P3
From: Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Dec 20, 2009
Thanks to Calvin for the hangover belay, and freeing this with me the day after halloween!
By Rob Warden, Space Lizard
From: Springdale Ut
Feb 1, 2014
Great Route Gaar, I really enjoyed it. cleaning up a little still pretty crispy and sandy