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Poe Buttress
Routes Sorted
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Brothers in Arms 
Edge of Fright 
Eyes of the World 
Maelstrom, The 
Mississippi Half-Step 
Off Your Rocker 
Prequel to the Sequel 
Uptown Toodeloo 

Edge of Fright 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c R

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Noel Childs and Rufus Miller
Page Views: 1,471
Submitted By: Kevin Stricker on Dec 5, 2007
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Olaf Mitchell on the upper section of Edge Of Frig...
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Description 

Edge of Fright joins Mississippi Half Step as one of the "Triple Crown" classics on the Poe Buttress. It links up three cracks on the right edge of the buttress, and is characterized by committing moves above small protection.
The first pitch begins with the Half Step, then steps right at the obvious, horizontal crack and continues up a positive, finger crack (5.10).
The second pitch is the Business, and begins directly above the bolted anchor on the belay ledge. Climb slabby moves to an easy hand and fist crack. Collect your psyche, place some pro then step left and climb a thin seam with hard to place small protection. A rest is gained at the horizontal before making hard moves left to the final crack. Another tenuous rest is followed by a challenging, final crack which eventually widens to thin hands before stepping left again to join the Half Step at its second belay.
Although the Edge of Fright is a scary lead it protects pretty well with modern small gear. It is arguably the best route on the Poe Buttress. Get on it!


Location 

The route is on the far right side of the Poe Buttress. A 70M rope will get you down from the fixed stopper anchor at the top of pitch 2 of the Half Step. Or continue to the top of Uptown Toodaloo and do 3 rappels with a 60M rope down Off Your Rocker.


Protection 

Lot's of RPs and TCUs and a few cams to 4".



Photos of Edge of Fright Slideshow Add Photo
Joe feeling it on the "fright". The gently overhung finger crack looms above.
Joe feeling it on the "fright". The gently overhun...
The Poe Buttress, with the second pitch of Edge of Fright left of the shadowed dihedral in the middle of the picture.
BETA PHOTO: The Poe Buttress, with the second pitch of Edge of...
"E" is Edge of Fright.  At least your not pumped for the initial thin moves left!
"E" is Edge of Fright. At least your not pumped f...
Joe starting the delicate, rp-protected seam on Edge of Fright. Mike is about to top out the half-step in the upper left.
Joe starting the delicate, rp-protected seam on Ed...
Joe in the upper finger crack on the Edge of Fright.  Photo by Mike S.
Joe in the upper finger crack on the Edge of Frigh...
Comments on Edge of Fright Add Comment
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By Kevin Stricker
From: Evergreen, CO
Dec 5, 2007

The following is a comment in Mississippi Half Step by Olaf Mitchell regarding the route:

I would like to acknowledge Rufus' lead on first ascent of "Edge of Fright"! Prandoni and I did the second ascent of Edge of Fright the same day we climbed the Toodeloo and Halfstep. We were armed with two complete sets of wired nuts and extra draws and biners. If my memory serves me well, we used most of that gear.

After speaking with Noel after their ascent, he told me that they barely had a full set of wires and some sizes were missing.
This means that Rufus had to climb some "sick" sections without the protection that a mortal man would need. "But, I have never heard of Rufus "Bam-Bam" Miller ever referred to as mortal!"

By stevecurtis
From: Petaluma California
Apr 6, 2008

Onsight 1997. Yes, the name was apt. I used a bunch of RPs and sliders, and then didn't have decent pro at the little roof. The next year I went back with my friend Pat, and he led it with some type of a trick tri-cam. Looked safe.

By Scott Bennett
Feb 24, 2009
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c R

I didn't have one at the time, but I would agree with the above comment about the tri-cam. It looked like a pink or red one would have gone in well in a little hole just before the cruxy, kinda-runout traverse left. The other option is a small and kinda sketchy rp, so I'll definitely be bringing some tricams next time I get on this pitch.
-Scott

By Scott Bennett
Oct 6, 2010
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c R

Finally got around to leading this thing, fully engaging! It's on as soon as you step left into the thin seam, with many strenuous-to-place tiny wires.
As I mentioned in my previous comment, I thought a tricam might fit into a hole in the horizontal crack before the traverse left. I couldn't get pink or red in there, but the new tiny black Tricam went in! Equalized it with a decent #2 RP and felt great....

-Scott