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Spring Wall
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Anger Management S 
Cleaning Lady S 
D.D.D. S 
Edge of Freedom S 
Fall Harvest S 
Full Yellow Jacket S 
Horseshoe Pits T,TR 
Reallyfivenineplus S 
Ringer S,TR 
Tiger's Eye S 

Edge of Freedom 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Euan Cameron and Julie Wright, 3rd July 2009
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 94
Submitted By: Euan Cameron on Jul 5, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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BETA PHOTO: Spring Wall main slab topo

Description 

Start 15 feet right of D.D.D. at a large flake. Climb the short wall to reach the first bolt at the start of the slab. Continue up the slab passing the second bolt on the right. As you reach the overhanging corner step left and clip the 3rd bolt.

After the 3rd bolt the climbing steepens as you ascend the edge of the wall using a mixture of holds on the arete and small holds on the wall.

The crux section between the 3rd and 6th bolts provides good moves on solid rock with an exhilarating position.

After the 6th bolt continue up the slab to the anchors.

Location 

Located on the right arete of the prominent corner of D.D.D..

Protection 

9 bolts, double chain anchor (shared with D.D.D.).


Photos of Edge of Freedom Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Main wall central Topo
BETA PHOTO: Main wall central Topo
Rock Climbing Photo: Chalking up prior to the crux on Edge of Freedom.
Chalking up prior to the crux on Edge of Freedom.
Rock Climbing Photo: High on Edge of Freedom.
High on Edge of Freedom.
Rock Climbing Photo: Tricky sidepulls mid crux on Edge of Freedom
Tricky sidepulls mid crux on Edge of Freedom
Rock Climbing Photo: Edge of Freedom Topo
BETA PHOTO: Edge of Freedom Topo
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting the crux on the Edge of Freedom's first a...
Starting the crux on the Edge of Freedom's first a...

Comments on Edge of Freedom Add Comment
Show which comments
By Howie Stern
From: Mammoth Lakes, Ca
Aug 2, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Fun route. Me and my partners thought it was no harder than 10b...Definitely not 11a! Reallyfivenineplus feels harder...
By Euan Cameron
Administrator
From: Redlands and Mammoth Lakes
Aug 3, 2009

Always difficult to grade something after taking time to clean and bolt. When I did it I thought it was about the same as D.D.D. but thanks for the feedback I'll modify the grade a bit.
By Howie Stern
From: Mammoth Lakes, Ca
Aug 3, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Everybody enjoyed it, thanks for the good work! Yeah, I have the same problem with rating my own routes as well! Look forward to getting on anger management :)
By kenr
Aug 3, 2015
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

We set up Top-Rope from the two-bolt top anchor. We reached that anchor by scrambing up around the Right (west) side of cliff. Glad we had approach shoes with sticky climbing rubber. The top area is fairly slopy, so be careful of slipping off (and careful not to dislodge loose rocks + dirt).

Lots of interesting moves. The "rooflet" is fun and not the crux. Gets fairly sustained above the roof. I felt no single move was harder than 10b, but it kept coming at me.

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