Edge of Doom
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BETA PHOTO: Edge of Doom, 5.10
Start from a small boulder on the right side of the base. The climb is an excellent exposed steep face. The 5.10B thin face at the top is runout.
Southeast of the route 29 Palms, a tall steep block has this route running up its exposed outer edge, Scramble up a ways from the ground to get to the base of the block.
3 bolts, bolted anchor/rap
The technical crux, as interpreted circa 1987. Cli...
Edge of Doom (5.10c), Joshua Tree NP
The old hardware.
One of the old protection bolts looks like it coul...
|By Ben H|
Mar 2, 2009
This route seems kind of sketch. I think I could pull the hangars off of the 1/4" bolts, or bolts completely out of the rock at bolt 3, maybe at 2, and two hangars off at the anchor. A substantial fall on this route would not be good. It is PG 13 assuming the bolts hold. I'd suggest rebolting, or giving it an R/X so that hopeful 10b climbers don't get seriously hurt/killed.
Otherwise the climb is a really fun climb with good opening moves.
|By Bob Gaines|
Jan 22, 2010
The aging hardware on this route has received a major upgrade.
Kevin Powell, Frank Bentwood and I replaced all the old 1/4 inch bolts (2 protection and 2 anchor bolts) with 1/2 inch diameter stainless steel bolts (courtesy American Safe Climbing Association). The first bolt is still a good 3/8 inch 5-piece rawl replaced by Kevin some years ago. There was also a 3/8 inch threaded rawl drive at the top anchor that looked OK (replaced the hanger).
A spectacular route, now with new bolts!
|By Ben H|
Apr 25, 2010
That's really awesome Bob. Thank you. I had stressed a bit about that routes safety. I felt obligated to go and do that myself. Better that someone who knows better than myself get it done instead. Its such a fun route, but left alone I could see someone getting hurt or worse. I'm sure it'll get plenty more traffic now.
|By Nick Barczak|
May 11, 2013
thanks for doing that upgrade! I had always wanted to climb this route but was a bit wary of the aged gear on it. Next time I'm in JT, I'll climb it for sure!