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Edge of Anxiety 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 9 pitches, 800', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Robin Barley, plus the existing FAs
Page Views: 544
Submitted By: Peter Spindloe on Jul 14, 2008
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Simon making the Traverse from Unfinished Symphony...

Description 

This is a link up of Unfinished Symphony, Anxiety State and Diamondback. The only new climbing on this route is the traverse left from Unfinished Symphony. This traverse is found by climbing to the first bolt on the second 10d pitch of that route, clipping it and then downclimbing until you can cross the vertical wall that divides the tiers of slab. Depending on where you start moving left, it may be very difficult without employing some tension from the rope. The rest of the traverse is probably 5.9+ and finishes with the bolt you clipped about 20 feet horizontally to your right! Despite that, it might be wise to have the weaker climber in the party, if it's an issue, lead the traverse since seconding it leaves you even more exposed at the moment you unclip the bolt (you can, however, place some cams below the bolt to protect your downclimb).


Location 

Starts on Unfinished Symphony (which itself starts on Snake).


Protection 

As for Unfinished Symphony.



Photos of Edge of Anxiety Slideshow Add Photo
Simon about to leave Unfinished Symphony and traverse over to Anxiety State.
Simon about to leave Unfinished Symphony and trave...
Simon on Anxiety State which traverses left across this friction slab and then heads up the leftmost line of bolts.
Simon on Anxiety State which traverses left across...
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By Matt Desenberg
From: Wells, Me
May 10, 2009

Traverse is spicy, but not too bad overall. .10a is probably a fair grade, but I agree that it gets easier the farther left you go. Don't fall.