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Edelrid Mega Jul
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By Weston L
From Summerlin, NV
May 23, 2013
Me at the good rest on Doggie Do
After first seeing this new device I was kinda intrigued, but holy hell... 'integral' or not to the operation, I don't want sh!t that is gonna fall apart. Reality is that Edelrid cuts corners with their products - hell, I had a gear loop break on a six month old harness of theirs on me under a light bit of wiggling in a chimney that sent my approach shoes on a long ride. Definitely will be avoiding their products...sketchy!!!!

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By Ray Pinpillage
From West Egg
May 23, 2013
Middle
Weston L wrote:
After first seeing this new device I was kinda intrigued, but holy hell... 'integral' or not to the operation, I don't want sh!t that is gonna fall apart. Reality is that Edelrid cuts corners with their products - hell, I had a gear loop break on a six month old harness of theirs on me under a light bit of wiggling in a chimney that sent my approach shoes on a long ride. Definitely will be avoiding their products...sketchy!!!!


I think that is unfair and a misrepresentation of what is happening. I need more information why the cable is coming loose and what it is rated for. I think the cable is pulling out because it wasn't designed as the only means of releasing the device. Unfortunately end users don't want to mess with caribiners and are probably pulling super hard on the cable. That's why I want to see pull testing, are the failures isolated or are they indicative of a design or implementation limitation?

The design has a lot of merrit and I would like to hear from Edelrid what exactly is going on.

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By Syd
May 23, 2013
Ray Pinpillage wrote:
... I would like to hear from Edelrid what exactly is going on.


So would I. I've written to them, but no reply.

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By Emmett Lyman
From Washington, DC
Jul 15, 2013
Personal photo
Any updates on the Mega Jul? I stupidly dropped/lost my Alpine Vader on rap the other day and would definitely consider one of these as a replacement if they've addressed the issue. Has anyone heard of other gear mfrs coming out with similar designs?

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By Syd
Jul 15, 2013
Emmett,
Apparently there's a replacement coming next year. I'm happy with mine after buying another biner with a very rounded cross section (plus a very small biner as a 'handle' for lowering on raps). No signs of the wire pulling yet.

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By Cultivating Mass
Jul 15, 2013
Leading on the only "fair means" rack.
Weston L wrote:
I had a gear loop break on a six month old harness of theirs on me under a light bit of wiggling in a chimney that sent my approach shoes on a long ride. Definitely will be avoiding their products...sketchy!!!!


Shoulda bought a Misty. Nyah, nyah!

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By Moritz B.
Jul 15, 2013
Profile Pic
Syd wrote:
Emmett, Apparently there's a replacement coming next year.

Where did you get that information from?

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By Weston L
From Summerlin, NV
Jul 15, 2013
Me at the good rest on Doggie Do
SirChips-A-Lot wrote:
Shoulda bought a Misty. Nyah, nyah!


Purchased at REI so returned and DGAF LOLZ

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By Ray Pinpillage
From West Egg
Jul 16, 2013
Middle
I haven't used the Mega Jul in a while. I've been letting my wife use it because she likes the lock up better than the Smart. I'll probably use it more when it cools off outside.

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By markus-bw
Jul 17, 2013
Moritz B. wrote:
Where did you get that information from?

In a recent articel in bergundsteigen 02/2013 (Austrian alpine club) Chris Semmel (IIRC) mentioned in passing that the long cable of the MegaJul was a problem with some biners (e.g. DMM Belay Master) and that Edelrid was adressing the issue in the next generation of the devices.
What else they'll change is anyone's guess, but the device is being redesigned at least slightly.

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By Syd
Jul 17, 2013
markus-bw wrote:
In a recent articel in bergundsteigen 02/2013 (Austrian alpine club) Chris Semmel (IIRC) mentioned in passing that the long cable of the MegaJul was a problem with some biners (e.g. DMM Belay Master) and that Edelrid was adressing the issue in the next generation of the devices. What else they'll change is anyone's guess, but the device is being redesigned at least slightly.


I think there's a typo ... the cable AND some biners are a problem. The DMM Belay Master looks typical of the biners I tested that don't rap smoothly. The groove in the biner causes lockup ups.

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By Patrick Mulligan
Jul 17, 2013
The top of the tufa on Magma
I've been using the Mega Jul extensively and exclusively since May of this year. I really like the device. I was worried for the first week or so about the "smoothness" of the device for lowering and rappelling and given that the first two weeks of use was during a trip to Kalymnos, the device saw a lot of both.

Here are a couple of thoughts.

The device for me seemed to have a break in period. This was both because of the learning curve for the device, as well as the polishing of the device. I truly believe that after a week of use the device simply works better. Not only did I learn how to use it, but even my friends who used the device for the first time had no issues with lowering after the "break in period" (which for me was about 16 sport pitches)

The device is really at its smoothest with ropes under 10mm. I've used the device with 8.5mm doubles and 9.5, 9.8, and 10.2mm singles. For lowering the 10.2mm definitely takes the most pressure on the thumb loop, while the other ropes all work very smoothly with little pressure.

Given that there have been some issues with the thumb loop breaking (not on mine), I've taken to using the biner hole on the inside of the device for rappelling on any rope and lowering with large diameter ropes. This keeps me from putting significant pressure on the thumb loop and I find I really like the action better that way. I'm at a point in the learning curve where I feel I can control descent as well as a grigri with the biner.

My last though is that I'm sure the next generation of this device will be improved (as all new products second generation are). I'll certainly upgrade when the next generations product is available. That said, I have not had a friend try the device and use the device who hasn't been blown away with its simplicity and weight. Almost all of them have either purchased a Jul or commented that their next device will be a Jul.

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By Kai Larson
From Sandy, Utah
Nov 10, 2013
Tour Ronde North Face
Been using the mega and micro jul for about 6 months now. These are by far my favorite devices ever. Gave away my Smart Alpines.

Feeding out rope is effortless. Assisted catch is great. Light weight, compact.

Can't think of anything better for an all-purpose belay/rappel device.

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By Kai Larson
From Sandy, Utah
Nov 22, 2013
Tour Ronde North Face
Yesterday, was rappeling with my microjoule, and the thumb release came off. Had to continue the rappel using a carabiner to release the device.

Not happy.

Have contacted Scarpa (USA Edelrid distributor)

Will see what they say.

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By Ray Pinpillage
From West Egg
Nov 22, 2013
Middle
They should braze the cable in.

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By John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
Nov 22, 2013
Kai Larson wrote:
Yesterday, was rappeling with my microjoule, and the thumb release came off. Had to continue the rappel using a carabiner to release the device. Not happy. Have contacted Scarpa (USA Edelrid distributor) Will see what they say.


My memory of the device is that you should be using the carabiner on rappel anyway- the thumb trigger is only for feeding slack and releasing the lock mechanism, not for rappelling. At least thats what Edelrid told me when I worked for them.

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By Patrick Mulligan
Nov 22, 2013
The top of the tufa on Magma
As another update, I connected with a rep for Edelrid this summer regarding the fact that my Jul was gouging my carabiners pretty badly. They are aware of the issue and plan on releasing a SS Belay biner next year that will address the issue completely.

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By Kai Larson
From Sandy, Utah
Nov 22, 2013
Tour Ronde North Face
Picture of my broken device
Edelrid Microjoule failure
Edelrid Microjoule failure

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By bearbreeder
Nov 22, 2013
Patrick Mulligan wrote:
As another update, I connected with a rep for Edelrid this summer regarding the fact that my Jul was gouging my carabiners pretty badly. They are aware of the issue and plan on releasing a SS Belay biner next year that will address the issue completely.


how much will a SS biner weight?

most interesting

;)

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By Syd
Nov 22, 2013
The mega jul does have some quirks. I've found it great for inspecting/cleaning projects but I discovered last week that when doing this and getting chalk on the rope, it locked up and wouldn't release without a great deal of tugging and bouncing.

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By Ray Pinpillage
From West Egg
Nov 22, 2013
Middle
John Wilder wrote:
My memory of the device is that you should be using the carabiner on rappel anyway- the thumb trigger is only for feeding slack and releasing the lock mechanism, not for rappelling. At least thats what Edelrid told me when I worked for them.


Its right in the instructions attached to the device.

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By bearbreeder
Nov 22, 2013
John Wilder wrote:
My memory of the device is that you should be using the carabiner on rappel anyway- the thumb trigger is only for feeding slack and releasing the lock mechanism, not for rappelling. At least thats what Edelrid told me when I worked for them.



and yet elderid shows this method for lowering a climber ...

whats the difference between lowerind and rapping?

why would it break on rap and not lower .... which incidentally is how one my an MPer on the previous page got broken


mega jul from edelrid
mega jul from edelrid


;)

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By John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
Nov 22, 2013
the president of Edelrid taught me how to use the device and lowering and rappelling were both done with the carabiner- they must have changed it between August of 2012 when I was shown the device (prototype) and March 2013 when the device was released to the public. I never got a sample to use, so I never spent a great deal of time on it.

that being said, I seem to recall the wire popping out of the prototypes toward the end of OR- i figured at the time since it was one of two in existence, they just hadnt worked out the bugs. Surprised that a year later, it seems to be a common failure mode. Oh well- i'll stick to my grigri2 for belaying and atc-guide for rapping, thanks.

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By Kai Larson
From Sandy, Utah
Nov 23, 2013
Tour Ronde North Face
Ray Pinpillage wrote:
Its right in the instructions attached to the device.



Not really. The instructions say that you "may" use a carabiner when rappelling. Nothing in the instructions telling you not to use the thumb loop when rappelling.

Additionally, the instructions clearly show using the thumb loop for lowering a climber. Same device orientation, same upward force.

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By Allen Corneau
From Houston, TX
Nov 25, 2013
bearbreeder wrote:
and yet elderid shows this method for lowering a climber ... whats the difference between lowerind and rapping? why would it break on rap and not lower .... which incidentally is how one my an MPer on the previous page got broken ;)



When rapping 100% of your body weight on the device. When lowering someone there is only ~70% of the body weight on the device due to the top anchor friction. For a 175 pound person that's a 50 pound difference.

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