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Edd’s Place is the most remote climbing area on the island. We first spotted it from a boat in 1995, a strip of light colored, smooth appearing rock rising abruptly out of the churning sea. It was clearly unapproachable from the bottom, only from the Bluff top - however no trails exist that lead to this part of the island. Update 2014: A new road has been cut. See below. Access is across a lonely windblown headland, an arid stretch devoid of most living things. The footing is very unstable over nasty Karst (photo #1) and there is literally no protection from the sun from sunup until sundown or from storms. Luebben and I headed out to find it one morning until Craig tripped, his left knee taking the brunt of the fall. We spent the next hour roasting like two weenies over a camp fire while I listened to his insufferable howls as we picked and pried razor sharp limestone spicules out of his knee. We stumbled out of the place in a dehydrated trance, both convinced there was definitely something ‘evil out there’. Edd’s remained elusive for more than a year until Jeff Elison apparently made a pact with the devil which provided him with safe passage. Jeff and Lizz Grenard made the perilous journey on several occasions, hauling both climbing and bolting gear, and they put up at least two of the most aesthetic routes on The Brac. True, getting there ain’t pretty, but the climbs are testy on highly featured, smooth limestone and absolutely spectacular in both position and exposure. So if you want adventure climbing in it’s most refined form, this is the place for you.
Finding Edd’s is quite simple, however actually getting there is another story. Drive to the turnaround at the end of Lighthouse Road (Major Donald drive) and park near the light tower. Go directly east to the Bluff edge and turn RIGHT (roughly south). Do your best to follow the Bluff edge for about 40 minutes (time it, it helps), passing small concrete squares called ‘DOS’ (Department of Surveys) Markers until you reach Marker #154 and finally #155. About 40 yards past #155 is a sizable cairn of white rocks at Edd’s Place. Total distance to Edd’s from the light tower is about 3/4ths of a mile.
2 Total Routes
Featured Route For Edd's Place
Limestone Pirate 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c North America : Cayman Brac : Edd's Place
Limestone Pirate: 11a, 2 top anchors, 12 bolts on the route, 2 bottom anchors. * NOTE - shares bottom anchors with Spiral Staircase. Same strategy as on Spiral Staircase, rap to bottom anchors (clip at least one anchor about half way down), clip in to bottom anchors, pull the rope and climb out. Photo #6 is a view up the route from the bottom anchors. The route is on very user friendly stone peppered with pockets of all sizes, edges, side pulls and a couple of throws. Continuously ove...[more] Browse More Classics in International
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