Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Edd’s Place is the most remote climbing area on the island. We first spotted it from a boat in 1995, a strip of light colored, smooth appearing rock rising abruptly out of the churning sea. It was clearly unapproachable from the bottom, only from the Bluff top - however no trails exist that lead to this part of the island. Update 2014: A new road has been cut. See below. Access is across a lonely windblown headland, an arid stretch devoid of most living things. The footing is very unstable over nasty Karst (photo #1) and there is literally no protection from the sun from sunup until sundown or from storms. Luebben and I headed out to find it one morning until Craig tripped, his left knee taking the brunt of the fall. We spent the next hour roasting like two weenies over a camp fire while I listened to his insufferable howls as we picked and pried razor sharp limestone spicules out of his knee. We stumbled out of the place in a dehydrated trance, both convinced there was definitely something ‘evil out there’. Edd’s remained elusive for more than a year until Jeff Elison apparently made a pact with the devil which provided him with safe passage. Jeff and Lizz Grenard made the perilous journey on several occasions, hauling both climbing and bolting gear, and they put up at least two of the most aesthetic routes on The Brac. True, getting there ain’t pretty, but the climbs are testy on highly featured, smooth limestone and absolutely spectacular in both position and exposure. So if you want adventure climbing in it’s most refined form, this is the place for you.
Finding Edd’s is quite simple, however actually getting there is another story. Drive to the turnaround at the end of Lighthouse Road (Major Donald drive) and park near the light tower. Go directly east to the Bluff edge and turn RIGHT (roughly south). Do your best to follow the Bluff edge for about 40 minutes (time it, it helps), passing small concrete squares called ‘DOS’ (Department of Surveys) Markers until you reach Marker #154 and finally #155. About 40 yards past #155 is a sizable cairn of white rocks at Edd’s Place. Total distance to Edd’s from the light tower is about 3/4ths of a mile.
2 Total Routes
Featured Route For Edd's Place
Spiral Staircase 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a North America : Cayman Brac : Edd's Place
Spiral Staircase: 10a, 2 top anchors, 12 bolts on the route, 2 bottom anchors just above the lip to an undercut near sea level. Approx 90’ (* use a 60 M rope and the ‘stretch’ will easily get you all the way down). Rappel to the bottom anchors (photo #2), clip in (photo #3), pull the rope and climb out (photo #4). The bottom 2/3rds of the route is overhanging, so the ’leader’ should clip at least one anchor below the obvious large cave to stay close to the wall on the way do...[more] Browse More Classics in International
Latest Regional Forum Messages
From International Go to Forum | What's New | Post New Topic