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Ed and Terry Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blind Date S,TR 
Call it a Knight S,TR 
Captured For Rapture T 
Dipthong T 
DJW Memorial T 
Edge of Knight T 
Edge of the World T 
Edge-n-Scary T 
First Kiss T,TR 
Flakes T,TR 
Full Skuck T 
Hotwired T 
I'm Not Lichen This S 
I.D. Claire S 
Lucky Streak T 
Main Crack T 
Neosymian Thugs S 
No Way In Hell T,TR 
North Chimney T 
North Crack T 
Real McCoy T,TR 
Roaches on a Face T 
Vote for Your Mom S 
Y Crack, The T 

Ed and Terry Wall Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 40.2645, -111.6232 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 16,395
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: John J. Glime on Sep 25, 2004
Forecast:
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BETA PHOTO: Ed and Terry Overview 1 I.D. Claire 5.6 2 DJW Memo...

Description 

This west-facing wall directly above Red Slab contains excellent routes on excellent rock.

It seems that when Red Slab is full, you can still be alone up on the Ed and Terry Wall.

Getting There 

As you hike up towards the canyon from the parking area, you will see the obvious west facing rocks on the south side of the canyon's entrance. You will probably see climbers on Red Slab.

From the parking lot stay right on the paved road. When you see a short, blocky, concrete structure on your left you can also see an obvious trail leading up the hill on your right (the start has an upside-down 'Y' aspect to it). Take this trail and branch left at the first intersection. Follow this to the top of the Red Slab and then scramble on 4th class terrain (following a fixed rope) up to Ed and Terry.

Be careful of loose rocks that can easily be dislodged onto climbers on Red Slab. It only takes 5 more minutes to reach the wall once you are at the base of Red Slab.

See the picture of the approach trail.

Climbing Season



Weather station 1.7 miles from here

24 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',11],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',4],['5.7',8],['5.8',3],['5.9',1],['5.10',6],['5.11',2],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Ed and Terry Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Ed and Terry Wall:
DJW Memorial   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   
Main Crack   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Full Skuck   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 75'   
Flakes   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 110'   
Real McCoy   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 90'   
No Way In Hell   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 90'   
Edge of the World   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Call it a Knight   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 110'   
Hotwired   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Edge of Knight   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 115'   
Captured For Rapture   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R     Trad, 115'   
Roaches on a Face   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Edge-n-Scary   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 2 pitches, 110'   
Lucky Streak   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 130'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Ed and Terry Wall

Featured Route For Ed and Terry Wall
Rock Climbing Photo: 15 Flakes 5.7 15a Flakes Old School Start

Flakes 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Ed and Terry Wall
A steep, exposed, thrilling, and wonderful natural line up the best-looking face in Rock Canyon. When big-name climbers come to Rock Canyon, Flakes always impresses.The line follows the right side of two large flakes about twenty feet to the left Main Crack.A start directly below the right side of the first flake is how most people climb it these now, but in the days of shorter ropes climbers started almost directly below Main Crack and traversed l...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of Ed and Terry Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Approach trail for Ed and Terry Wall, Rest Area, a...
BETA PHOTO: Approach trail for Ed and Terry Wall, Rest Area, a...
Rock Climbing Photo: Ed and Terry North Side 7 North Chimney 5.7 8 Nort...
BETA PHOTO: Ed and Terry North Side 7 North Chimney 5.7 8 Nort...
Rock Climbing Photo: Major routes on the Ed and Terry Wall. Approach fr...
BETA PHOTO: Major routes on the Ed and Terry Wall. Approach fr...
Rock Climbing Photo: The upper face in this photo is the Ed and Terry W...
BETA PHOTO: The upper face in this photo is the Ed and Terry W...
Rock Climbing Photo: Black Rose, Red Slab, Ed & Terry Wall
Black Rose, Red Slab, Ed & Terry Wall

Comments on Ed and Terry Wall Add Comment
Show which comments
By Perin Blanchard
Administrator
From: Orem, UT
Jun 12, 2007
Ed and Terry climbers! Are you tired of the toproping Red Slab kids with their shiny gear laughing at you and kicking dirt on you as you trudge past with your beaten up nuts and cams? Afraid your environmental karma is suffering because of your erosion-causing ways?

Avoid those embarrassing episodes by using the new Ed and Terry approach trail:

Rock Climbing Photo: Approach trail for Ed and Terry Wall, Rest Area, a...
Approach trail for Ed and Terry Wall, Rest Area, and Scenic Turnout.

From the parking lot stay right on the paved road. When you see a short, blocky, concrete structure on your left you can also see an obvious trail leading up the hill on your right (the start has an upside-down 'Y' aspect to it). Take this trail and branch left at the first intersection. Follow this to the top of the Red Slab and then scramble on up to Ed and Terry.
By Tristan Higbee
From: Ogden, UT (temporarily)
Oct 24, 2008
I used this alternate approach for the first time yesterday and i like it a lot better than the normal red slab approach.

I also climbed two routes on the slab b/t Red Slab and Ed and Terry--the one with Adam's Vote For Your Mom (5.3) route on it. I climbed the mossy corner/crack to the right. It was astoundingly dirty! The climbing was probably only 5.5/5.6 but seems harder because you have to hunt for holds between the moss and use the moss as holds. The top 30 feet or so are cleaner. The route is 90 feet long and you can rap or lower from a tree or walk off and down to the left to the base of Ed and Terry. I used a whole set of cams from TCU size to #4 Camalot. This route is NOT recommended.

The other route I did was between this route and Adam's, right about in the middle of the face. This route is probably 5.4ish and climbs for about 30 feet with no protection toward a horn, then up to some more pronounced cracks. This route is worth a star and is pretty fun. I brought and used a set of nuts, some TCUs, and small-hand-sized cams. It's also about 90 feet long. There's another tree at the top to rap/lower from or you can just walk down and left to the base of Ed and Terry.
By Sam Cannon
From: Holladay, Utah
Sep 20, 2014
The more I climb beyond the 2 standard routes on this wall (Main Crack and Flakes), the more I love it. Fantastic piece of slab! For those looking at this area for info on those two routes, I'd encourage you to check out the other trad and sport lines on the wall! The sport routes will feel a bit more traditional in that the spacing makes you really concentrate between bolts, especially if you're only a 5.10 climber (like me). It feels like they were probably bolted on lead. Real McCoy and Call it a Knight are both incredible. The other trad routes that receive 3/4 stars are also high quality, not just by RC standards, but compared to stuff in LCC/BCC as well.

If this wall were in LCC/BCC it'd be one of the classic areas there, too. For those living in SLC, this wall alone should justify a trip down to this beautiful and overlooked (for those living outside UT County) area.
By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Mar 29, 2016
There is no fixed rope on the 4th class approach pitch. There is a nice set of chains with huge rap rings directly below the wall that can be used to rap off the Red Slab on the way down.

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