BETA PHOTO: Ed and Terry Overview 1 I.D. Claire 5.6 2 [[1059...
This west-facing wall directly above Red Slab contains excellent routes on excellent rock.
It seems that when Red Slab is full, you can still be alone up on the Ed and Terry Wall.
As you hike up towards the canyon from the parking area, you will see the obvious west facing rocks on the south side of the canyon's entrance. You will probably see climbers on Red Slab.
From the parking lot stay right on the paved road. When you see a short, blocky, concrete structure on your left you can also see an obvious trail leading up the hill on your right (the start has an upside-down 'Y' aspect to it). Take this trail and branch left at the first intersection. Follow this to the top of the Red Slab and then scramble on 4th class terrain (following a fixed rope) up to Ed and Terry.
Be careful of loose rocks that can easily be dislodged onto climbers on Red Slab. It only takes 5 more minutes to reach the wall once you are at the base of Red Slab.
Ed and Terry climbers! Are you tired of the toproping Red Slab kids with their shiny gear laughing at you and kicking dirt on you as you trudge past with your beaten up nuts and cams? Afraid your environmental karma is suffering because of your erosion-causing ways?
Avoid those embarrassing episodes by using the new Ed and Terry approach trail:
Approach trail for Ed and Terry Wall, Rest Area, and Scenic Turnout.
From the parking lot stay right on the paved road. When you see a short, blocky, concrete structure on your left you can also see an obvious trail leading up the hill on your right (the start has an upside-down 'Y' aspect to it). Take this trail and branch left at the first intersection. Follow this to the top of the Red Slab and then scramble on up to Ed and Terry.
I used this alternate approach for the first time yesterday and i like it a lot better than the normal red slab approach.
I also climbed two routes on the slab b/t Red Slab and Ed and Terry--the one with Adam's Vote For Your Mom (5.3) route on it. I climbed the mossy corner/crack to the right. It was astoundingly dirty! The climbing was probably only 5.5/5.6 but seems harder because you have to hunt for holds between the moss and use the moss as holds. The top 30 feet or so are cleaner. The route is 90 feet long and you can rap or lower from a tree or walk off and down to the left to the base of Ed and Terry. I used a whole set of cams from TCU size to #4 Camalot. This route is NOT recommended.
The other route I did was between this route and Adam's, right about in the middle of the face. This route is probably 5.4ish and climbs for about 30 feet with no protection toward a horn, then up to some more pronounced cracks. This route is worth a star and is pretty fun. I brought and used a set of nuts, some TCUs, and small-hand-sized cams. It's also about 90 feet long. There's another tree at the top to rap/lower from or you can just walk down and left to the base of Ed and Terry.