Ecstasy 5.7
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| Type: | Trad, 3 pitches, 250 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.7 [details] |
| FA: | Faint, et al. |
| Submitted By: | Josh Janes on Jan 18, 2007 |
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Schematic of Ectasy on the South End.
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Description Ecstasy is a classic, steep, exposed line that protects well. A perfect route for aspiring trad leaders. P1: Begin at the far left end of the South End and climb up a 25' chimney to a large ledge. Continue up a white face to a belay stance beneath a roof. P2: Step right and ascend a wide crack, then continue traversing right while the wall below you disappears. Climb up a broken system to a belay at some fixed gear. P3: Traverse right again and then head up very steep rock to a good ledge and belay from a tree.
Protection Standard rack.
Climbers on Pitch 2. Fall, 2007.
| BETA PHOTO: start to Ecstasy
| James Bragg approaching the second belay station
| James Bragg approaching the third and final belay ...
| BETA PHOTO: Red arrow points to rap for Ecstasy & Simple J Mal...
| Garth on the first pitch one cold windy day.
| the ecstasy line. a good one!
| Buddy Price climbing up last pitch of Ecstasy 09-2...
| near the end of the 3rd pitch
| at the start of the 2nd pitch
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By Tony B From: Around Boulder, CO Jan 19, 2007 rating: 5.7
| This is a great intro to Seneca at a moderate level. It gives you a feel for what is special about the place without climbing too hard or wandering around too far before getting the feel of it. |
By Brian Adzima From: Pittsburgh Feb 8, 2007 rating: 5.6
| Of the Seneca Sevens, Ecstasy is the closet to the road, the least vertical approach, most over-hyped, and probably the easiest. If you want to climb Ecstasy be prepared to wait at the base of the route, and then at every belay station. Depending on the party ahead of you the three pitches could take half of the day. If the party ahead of you is really testing your patience you might want to bail onto the Southwest corner or some other route around on the west face. That being said, Ecstasy is an ok route with no/little loose rock and ok fixed gear. |
By Floridaputz From: Oakland Park, Florida Feb 19, 2008
| My first climb at Seneca Rocks. I just led this Again. I really think this is one of the best 5.7's anywhere. The traversing P2 and P3 is outstanding, pretty darn good exposure as the route traverses above the big cave. |
By Matty Zane From: Freedom Apr 17, 2009
| Lines? I have climbed this route 3 times, and not once have I had to wait in line. It is a must do in my opinion. Be carful with the old pins. |
By attila Apr 11, 2010
| My guidebook describes this as something like "exciting but never outrageous". That's a perfect description. There's one spot on P2 where your only pro option is an old piton. Other pitons are in spots where you can place your own gear and not rely on these god-only-knows fixed pieces. There are no bail-out points without losing gear. Once on, you're committed. So climb with a proven partner! This climb is wonderful, do it even if you have to wait. Rappel from Ecstasy Jr. just around the corner. |
By Josh Smethers From: Malvern, pa Apr 11, 2010 rating: 5.7 PG13
| Tons of fun and super exposed! You can really sew it up too, if you feel nervous. The third pitch is powerful, but "it's all there" as they say. |
By Ross Purnell From: Palmyra Aug 17, 2010
| This is probably my least favorite Seneca 5.7. The second belay station sucks. You can bypass it and go all the way to the top, but it's hell trying to communicate with your second. It's too much traversing and not enough upward climbing, and the rock is funky. Compare this to great lines like West Pole and it just doesn't cut it as a classic. Ecstasy Junior is more esthetically pleasing, and you can rap down to your bags afterward. |
By CDC Sep 20, 2011
| Ecstasy can be done in two pitches with a 70 meter rope. |
By Joe Hunt From: Long Beach, CA Sep 30, 2011 rating: 5.6
| Thought it was classic and super steep for the grade. Soft rating, though... maybe a 7- or a 6 even. |
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