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The Beach
Routes Sorted
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Blood Meridian S 
Eclipse S 
For The Lova Mike S 
Hang Eleven S 
Holeo An' Glassy Ass S 
Milanoma S 
No War S 
Pipeline S 
Solar Power S 

Eclipse 

YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Todd McG, JBaker, April 2002
Season: Winter/spring
Page Views: 1,172
Submitted By: jbak on Dec 17, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Silhouette shot of Eclipse

Description 

Steepest route at Milagrosa is a miniature jewel. It's only 30 feet but those 30 feet match up with just about any around. It starts at 5.11 and gets steadily harder until it tickles the underbelly of 5.13. It's about 80 degrees beyond vertical.


Location 

Obvious roof, left side of Beach ledge.


Protection 

6 bolts and chains + a dog bolt.



Photos of Eclipse Slideshow Add Photo
Reasonably steep, eh?  Todd fights for the FA.
Reasonably steep, eh? Todd fights for the FA.
JB on Eclipse back when the route was put up.
JB on Eclipse back when the route was put up.
The bucket-y start of Eclipse... too bad it doesn't go on like this for another 50 feet !
The bucket-y start of Eclipse... too bad it doesn'...
Comments on Eclipse Add Comment
Show which comments
By jbak
Apr 13, 2008

Got on this thing again today...what a kick-ass route !

By iancevans
Apr 25, 2010

Clip the chain draw, then skip the next two bolts on redpoint and go for a RIDE when you blow the final easy move to chains!

Very fun, but those jugs are sharp.

By jbak
Apr 25, 2010

Ian, just make sure the nut on the chain-draw is tight if you skip the last clip. Can't remember if I locktited it or not. 2nd-to-last is just a dog bolt like the one on Chaingang.

By Alex McIntyre
From: Tucson, AZ
Dec 19, 2011

Great route! Super fun and that last section is HARD. Timing it so that a cloud blows over as you exit the roof is the way to go or else everything over the lip is really greasy.

One thing, watch out for wasps on the last few big holds in the roof. On the redpoint I grabbed the hold right next to the big blocky jug, moved onto the jug and then watched a wasp crawl out of where my fingers had just been.

By jbak
Dec 19, 2011

Alex... glad you liked it. Had a hard time figuring out what "a could blows over" meant. Then I got it.

By soren tucker
Nov 25, 2012

wasp's nests are successfully destroyed (11/25/12)