Eclipse 5.9
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9 [details] |
| FA: | Dennis Jackson and Earl Wiggins, mid '70s |
| Submitted By: | pete cogan on May 15, 2004 |
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Description Terrific Turkey Tail route. From the trail you'll see a beautiful hand crack perhaps forty feet above you. That's your start. To the left is an OW that gets progressively bigger. To your right, splitting the slab, is a crack that opens and closes and looks nasty (it's Termination, 5.8, and after the start it's very good).
Another approach: look up and locate the slings.
From the trail, scramble up to the base of the climb. Climb about 50 feet of hand crack to a ledge, then another shorter crack section to an easy face, which leads to the anchor.
A well-protected, beautiful line.
Protection #0.75 to #3.5 Camalots; medium and big stoppers; a few bigger hexes. Can double in hand size pieces to sew it up. Webbing and links for rapping. We had a 60 meter rope.
By Luke Clarke
From: Golden
Jun 26, 2006
| If only this route were a little longer it would be a classic. Super jams with a near vertical start lead to more great jams. It's one of those lines you can pretty well guess what each gear placement will be from the start. Do it if you're in the neighborhood. Do Termination too, but this one is better. |
By dennis jackson
Aug 26, 2009
| FA by Dennis Jackson and Earl Wiggins, mid '70s. Dennis also did the first ascent of Termination and Inner Reaches, and Ragger Bagger and Refer Madness on the Perch. |
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