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By Sam Lightner, Jr.
From: Lander, WY
Sep 22, 2006
I aided up the first pitch of the Window Route and then walked over to the upper pitches of "No Reply" (skipping the nailing first pitch of "no reply"). The flake pitch is quite sporty and fairly strenuous... I'd recommend leaving the large rack behind and just taking a draw for the fixed pin, a couple midsize cams, and some hand size stuff to build a belay.... Oh yeah, if you are used to having bolted belays on your tower climbs, expect a change. This route requires you to build your own anchors, so save some extra stuff when you get to the ledges. I think for most of the anchors I used hand size gear. I used #4's at the summit. You only need a few nuts for this thing. Plan on taking lots of cams from 1.5 through 3 (Friends)... like four or five each if you dont want to leap-frog.
Most of the summit rappel anchors, which seem to exist above most of the routes at one time, have been chopped... but a full sixty meter rap just south of the Window Route gets you down, barely.
I found two pieces at one of the belays. Name that belay and the pieces, and you can have them back!